Technology-Driven Sustainability
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Technology-Driven Sustainability

Innovation in the Fashion Supply Chain

Gianpaolo Vignali, Louise F. Reid, Daniella Ryding, Claudia E. Henninger, Gianpaolo Vignali, Louise F. Reid, Daniella Ryding, Claudia E. Henninger

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eBook - ePub

Technology-Driven Sustainability

Innovation in the Fashion Supply Chain

Gianpaolo Vignali, Louise F. Reid, Daniella Ryding, Claudia E. Henninger, Gianpaolo Vignali, Louise F. Reid, Daniella Ryding, Claudia E. Henninger

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Información del libro

This book provides a critical overview of technologies that are used within the fashion industry and supply chain, with a special emphasis on how they engender sustainability and the circular economy. The chapters present contemporary case studies alongside new research on technologies such as 3D printing, 3D scanning and recycling technology to assess the effect they will have on the future of fashion and its global supply chain.

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Información

Año
2019
ISBN
9783030154837
Categoría
Gestión
© The Author(s) 2020
G. Vignali et al. (eds.)Technology-Driven Sustainabilityhttps://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-15483-7_1
Begin Abstract

1. Introduction

Gianpaolo Vignali1  , Louise F. Reid2, Daniella Ryding1 and Claudia E. Henninger1
(1)
School of Materials, University of Manchester, Manchester, UK
(2)
The University of Gloucestershire, Cheltenham, UK
 
 
Gianpaolo Vignali

Gianpaolo Vignali

is a graduate from the University of Manchester Institute of Science and Technology (UMIST) with his first degree in mathematics. Later adding a master’s in Strategic Management, his career started as a part-time lecturer and researcher at Manchester Metropolitan University before moving to full-time employment in the Department of Retail at Leeds Metropolitan University. He then became Programme Leader for Fashion Buying & Merchandising at Manchester Metropolitan University until he achieved his PhD and moved to Manchester University working in the School of Materials, where he delivers lectures on both undergraduate and post graduate programmes.
He has written over 40 papers and books in the fields of Marketing and Management and presented at numerous international conferences. His research focuses on the case study technique in the service sector which coincided with his PhD programme of study.
 

Louise F. Reid

is Lecturer in Digital Marketing at the University of Gloucestershire. Her career in the fashion sector encompassed both retailing and buying roles for the brands Warehouse and Cotton Traders, respectively. Reid’s PhD research, which follows a BA (hons) in Consumer Studies and an MSc in Strategic Fashion Buying, investigated the role of psychological and physical determinants of clothing comfort within the consumer’s process of garment evaluation within multiple channel retail environments. Her thesis and research into virtual and augmented reality retailing informs her supervision and teaching at the undergraduate, postgraduate and doctoral levels in strategy, retailing, consumer behaviour and digital marketing topics.
 

Daniella Ryding

is Senior Lecturer in Strategic Marketing Management and the Academic Lead for the New Academics Programme in the Faculty of Science and Engineering. She is the Exams Officer for the largest MSc programmes in the School of Materials, sits on a number of School and Faculty Committees for Teaching and Learning, and thereby is proactively involved with strategic decisions to improve the overall student experience. Ryding has a keen commitment and interest in educational research and is supervising doctoral work within this remit. In addition, she is an active researcher within her subject specialisation with over 40 published articles and several text book contributions; she sits on the editorial board for a number of academic business journals. Ryding is a member of the scientific committee and abstract coordinator for CIRCLE International (Centre for international Research on Consumers in their Locations and Environments), which hosts an annual conference with over 88 university members. Her main discipline-specific research centres on complex cognition, further exploring the psychological and behavioural mechanisms which impact on consumer decision-making within product packaging and the branding and communication business remits. She works with the School of Psychology and co-supervises a number of PhDs on the topic of memory. She is also actively involved with a number of research projects, which involve studies surrounding Sustainability within the Circular Economy.
 

Claudia E. Henninger

is Lecturer in Fashion Marketing Management at the University of Manchester, UK, where she teaches sustainability and strategic management. Henninger has presented her research at national and international conferences and published in leading journals. Henninger is the Deputy Chair of the Academy of Marketing SIG Sustainability. Her first edited book Sustainability in Fashion—A Cradle to Upcycle Approach was published in 2017 with Springer and her second edited book Vintage Luxury Fashion published in 2018 was also with Springer.
 
End Abstract
The following collection of chapters is a collaboration of academics from across Europe investigating technology within the fashion industry and its impact on creating a more sustainable way of production and manufacturing. All of the scholars are renowned independent scientists who share the same drive in creating a sustainable supply chain.
They share a communal goal in answering how can the contribution of technology interlink with sustainability and how can this be improved. These dialogues have been borne out of conference discussions, of networking in key forums and through lobbying policy makers.
Kofi Annan inspired a generation through “Freedom from want, freedom from fear, and the freedom of future generations to sustain their lives on this planet.” Each chapter in turn focuses on educating the next generation of sustainable thinkers on development practices and, in particular, the key challenges facing technology in supply chains today.
These chapters provide an insight into the different solution-driven priorities in industry and touch upon the concepts of co-production. Fundamental research into the growth of society by means of creating cleaner production allows for incremental change. However, innovation in turn increases rate of obsolescence, and the consistent move towards new technology creates a dearth of technology. Seeing through this mist is key if we want “freedom from want and freedom from fear.”
Chapter 2 provides an insight into the circular economy and how recycling technology transforms garment design, closing this loop from production to reuse. The managed use of land, with the growing demand of cotton not being able to meet demand, requires investigation into exploring textile recycling and waste sorting. Furthermore the processes of mechanical, chemical and thermal recycling are conveyed. Finally a clear message is the transparency within the industry and how this is implemented.
The next section commences with an overview of the garment industry being the second most polluting in the world and again an emphasis on circular economy. In this chapter, however, the author explores the consumer role in this arena and how designers can centre their concerns on the user. The discussion of computer numerical control (CNC) technologies and how they are leading to a trend of external assembly systems including fablabs is presented.
Researchers from Munich, Germany, discuss an exploration of the trends in digital technology and new consumption modes in Chap. 4. Particular emphasis is made on the models of exchange between customer–to-customer (C2C) and business-to-customer (B2C) interactions. C2C and B2C once established as access-based models are then contextualised in two case studies linked to short- and long-term loans. The chapter concludes with consumer preferences in the engagement and use of access-based and collaborative consumption models.
Chapter 5 addresses how to mimic certain colours that are around consumers in the natural environment. In particular, it focuses on the unique colours elicited by the Morpho butterfly and how the use of a dye kitchen and the technology within it allow for the reproduction of these colours.
In the next chapter, design processes are explored. From the legislative drivers associated with circular economy and the ambitions associated with it to the design for sustainable use and disassembly, this chapter provides an insight into the challenges facing the textile sector. The chapter concludes by defining a culture change for the circular economy shifting towards producer responsibility.
Researchers from Portugal seek to present an alternative approach of managing fashion business online in Chap. 7. Digital technology can assist supply chains in providing better sourcing solutions not only for existing retailers but also for start-ups. The chapter reviews and explores how designers commence the sourcing process to the satisfaction linked to this task. In particular the B2B (business-to-business) model, which was developed in Chap. 3, as well as the B2C and C2C models, are highlighted in a case study of U.MAKE.ID.
Chapter 8 explores 3D printing with a focus on the emerging Chinese market realising its potential. The origin and use of 3D printing is conveyed leading to the Chinese millennial consumption of luxury garments. The perceptions and purchase intentions of this segment cement their understanding that there are negative connotations of garments of this type. However, the model is novel and may be too early in the phase for these consumers.
Chapter 9 is conceptual in nature and focuses on more recent technological innovations that have been implemented in the fashion industry, namely augmented reality (AR) and virtual reality (VR). The technology acceptance model (TAM) further evaluates the perceived usefulness and the ease of use of AR and VR from a consumer perspective by drawing on current fashion examples. The chapter concludes by highlighting future directions for research.
Chapter 10 considers three-dimensional (3D) body scanning and its applications in the fashion industry. The focus will lend itself to how this technology can help drive a more sustainable and cleaner production process, help reduce the rate of returns in online shopping and reduce the waste attributed to the construction of clothing. After initially defining 3D body scanning, the emphasis shifts towards cleaner production and the value for supply chains. The exploration of human and computer interactions and the measurements of the data that is elicited will highlight the benefits and limitations to this method of data capture and the gaps attributed to the diverse range of retailers’ measurements of apparel. The chapter culminates with areas of strength but also areas of future research growth that will lead to a more sustainable fashion supply chain.
The following chapter considers in-store technology and how the technology acceptance model (TAM) in this context relates to premium brand consumers. The conceptual framework develops the links between the traditional TAM dimensions and customer brand relationship dimensions. Researchers from the University of Manchester and the University of the Arts, London, provide practical recommendations and supported technologies for premium fashion retailers.
Chapter 12 culminates in the applications of the closing the loop (CTL) framework at the product level. Sustainability by use of toxic-free designs and zero waste encapsulates circular economy in the production and manufacturing approach.
Hopefully these insights will provide the reader with an opportunity to delve into the works of sustainability and product development within the fashion industry. These innovative ways of working will help pave the way for a more sustainable future for the next generation.
© The Author(s) 2020
G. Vignali et al. (eds.)Technology-Driven Sustainabilityhttps://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-15483-7_2
Begin Abstract

2. Closing the Loop: Intentional Fashion Design Defined by Recycling Technologies

Kirsi Niinimäki1 and Essi Karell1
(1)
School of Arts, Design and Architecture, Design Research, Fashion/Textile Futures Research Group, Aalto University, Helsinki, Finland
Kirsi Niinimäki

Keywords

RecyclingClosing the loopIntentional fashion designSorting technologyCircular economy

Kirsi Niinimäki,

PhD (Doctor of Arts in Aalto University), is Associate Professor of Design, especially in fashion research in the Department of Design at Aalto University, Finland. Her research has focused on holistic understanding of sustainable fashion and textile fields and connections between design, manufacturing, business models and consumption. Her research group, the Fashion/Textile Futures (http://​ftfutures.​aalto.​fi), is involved in several significant research projects which integrate closed loop, bioeconomy and circular economy approaches in fashion and textile systems and extend the understanding of strategic sustainable design.

Essi Karell,

MA, is a doctoral candidate in the Department of Design at Aalto University, Finland, where she works with the Fashion/Textile Futures research group. Her research focuses on fashion design in a circular economy, more precisely on design, which enables textile waste recycling. Previously, she worked in projects related to emerging technologies in sustainable fas...

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