You will have no problem finding your way around this delightfully compact city. Most of the important sights and museums are contained within the central section and bounded by the former medieval ramparts, so exploring Copenhagen on foot is a real pleasure. The network of canals also offers many opportunities for waterside walks and gentle excursions afloat. And if you want a change of pace from sightseeing or shopping, the abundance of leafy parks and attractive gardens provides a very welcome and pleasant retreat.
Museum opening times and charges are subject to change. It is advisable to check the listings at www.visitcopenhagen.com, www.copenhagen.com or https://cph-tourist.dk. The Copenhagen Card (for more information, click here) offers free or discounted entry.
Around Rådhuspladsen and Vesterbro
Every city has a social gathering point, but Copenhagen has more than one. Without a doubt, the centrally located Rådhuspladsen (City Hall Square) is the most popular and, consequently, most of the suggested planned walks start from here. It is also the stopping point for the main bus routes and is near Central Station, where trains depart for the suburbs and beyond.
It is in this large open square, with its buskers and ubiquitous hot-dog stands (pølsevogn), that you can take the opportunity to observe Danish life.
Rådhuspladsen, focal point of city life
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City Hall
The dominant building in Rådhuspladsen is the red-brick Rådhus 1 [map] (City Hall; www.kk.dk; Mon–Fri 9am–4pm, Sat 9.30am–1pm; free), with its 105m (345ft) tower. Built between 1892 and 1905, it is reached via broad steps which play host to impromptu concerts. Its main doorway is crowned by a statue of Bishop Absalon, the founder of the city, in copper and 22-carat gilt. On the roof above you’ll see six bronze figures of night watchmen dating from various periods of the city’s history. Each section of the Rådhus bears a different style and imprint, but they come together architecturally very much like a patchwork quilt. The main hall and banqueting room are impressive with their statuary and coats-of-arms – especially the view of the 44m (145ft) long hall from the first-floor colonnade (guided tours in English Mon–Fri 1pm, Sat 10am; tel: 33 66 25 86; www.kk.dk).
If you are feeling energetic, there are also guided tours of City Hall Tower and its 300 steps (Mon–Fri 11am and 2pm, Sat noon). On a clear day you can see north along the coast and across the Øresund to Sweden. In the foyer of City Hall a sign points to Jens Olsen’s World Clock (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9.30am–1pm; free). This intriguing astronomical clock, said to have more than 14,000 parts, shows time around the world, the positions of the planets and the Gregorian calendar.
Lur Players on Rådhuspladsen
Rudy Hemmingsen/Apa Publications
Lurs and Legends
To your right as you leave the City Hall, on Vester Voldgade, is the unique Lur Players statue. Legend has it that the two men on top will sound a note on their instruments if a virgin passes by – they’ve been standing on the column since 1914 but have led a life of silence. On the opposite corner of the square is the dramatic copper Bull-and-Dragon Fountain (1923), depicting a fierce, watery battle between the two beasts. Not far away sits a bronze version of Denmark’s favourite son, storyteller Hans Christian Andersen, near the boulevard that bears his name. It is on this busy road that you’ll notice a very prominent feature of Danish life – the ubiquitous bicycle.
The road to the northwest of Rådhuspladsen is Vesterbrogade, which leads to Central Station, the Copenhagen Visitor Centre (for more information, click here) and Tivoli Gardens.
Night-time illuminations at Tivoli’s pagoda
Rudy Hemmingsen/Apa Publications
Tivoli Gardens
Across Hans Christian Andersens Boulevard from Rådhuspladsen is Copenhagen’s most famous attraction, Tivoli Gardens 2 [map] (main entrance Vesterbrogade 3; www.tivoli.dk; daily early Apr–mid-Sept Sun–Thu 11am–11pm, Fri–Sat 11am–midnight; also open Halloween and Christmas – see website for hours).
Opened in 1843, this old-time pleasure park offers a joyous combination of theatrical performances, concerts, cafés and restaurants, and funfair rides and amusements, all set in beautiful gardens in the heart of the city. Visitors are welcomed by attendants dressed in old-fashioned outfits who embody a sense of dignity and tradition – qualities that infuse Tivoli. At the Pantomime Theatre, for instance, the mimed antics of Harlequin, Columbine and the clown Pierrot are accompanied not by pre-recorded music but by a small orchestra. The Tivoli Boys’ Guard brass band frequently parades through the park, dressed in red-and-white uniforms and bearskin caps. Another 19th-century tradition is the fireworks display that begins and ends the opening season.
Tivoli throws open its doors for the festive season in the run-up to Christmas each year. The lake is frozen for skating and stalls offer tempting seasonal wares.
Thrilling rides are all part of the fun at Tivoli
Rudy Hemmingsen/Apa Publications
Rollercoaster Rides & Amusements
With its lake and lawns, water features and prolific flowerbeds, Tivoli fulfils its role as a traditional landscaped garden. Archaic side stalls, a traditional merry-go-round and a vintage trolleybus ride add to the feeling that you have stepped back into an older, gentler era. But it’s not all coconut shies and hoopla – there are plenty of modern rides to set the pulse racing. Himmelskibet is one of the tallest carousels in the world, twirling its riders along at a height of 80m (262ft). The most extreme of the park’s four rollercoasters is Dæmonen, which loops-the-loop at speeds of up to 80kph (50mph). Vertigo, one of the newest rides, simulates a flight in a fighter jet.
For kids, excitements include a Viking-ship roundabout, flying aeroplanes and miniature classic cars. For the even fainter of heart, the dragon boats on the lake have a romantic appeal. To go on any of the rides you need to either buy a unlimited ride pass (from 240kr), which lasts all day, or separate tickets (30kr–90kr).
The driving force behind Tivoli was the 19th-century polyglot entrepreneur Georg Cartensen. He had travelled widely and seen th...