The Grassmarket
Greyfriars Tolbooth and Highland Kirk
Royal Mile
Writersâ Museum
Camera Obscura
Scotch Whisky Experience
Edinburgh Castle
Edinburghâs most important historical sight and the centre of the cityâs tourism, the Castle is built on a dramatic piece of volcanic rock that survived the last Ice Age and protected a ridge of rock behind it from advancing glaciers. The resulting âcrag and tailâ created a site for a well-protected town on raised ground between two valleys and beneath the towering fortress. The âtailâ leading down from the Castle supports the Royal Mile, so called because it runs the length of it, for 1 mile and 106yds (1.9km) down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse (for more information, click here).
The route begins at the historic Grassmarket, lurking below the south-facing drop of the castle rock, before leading up to George IV Bridge â one of many bridges crossing the valleys up to the Castle âtailâ â and now lined with tall buildings. Taking in one of Britainâs most impressive cityscapes from Greyfriars churchyard, the route continues to the upper reaches of the Royal Mile itself, providing a deep history, intriguing sights and fascinating range of museums. It ends with a tour of Edinburgh Castle, including a visit to the cityâs oldest building, St Margaretâs Chapel.
The Castle in the morning light.
Douglas Macgilvray/Apa Publications
Bagpiper on the Royal Mile.
Douglas Macgilvray/Apa Publications
Grassmarket
The cobbled Grassmarket 1 [map], has long since shaken off its down-at-heel reputation and now houses hotels, great pubs, cafés and restaurants, which in summer offer refreshments al fresco. Most of the tall tenements here were built in the 19th century, though a few older buildings survive, such as the atmospheric White Hart Inn, and at the east end close to Victoria Street, an early 17th-century stone house, constructed when most of Edinburgh was still built of wood. Nearby is one of the old wells sunk to supply Edinburgh with its first clean water in the late 17th century. Long ago the monks of the Greyfriars Franciscan convent held cattle sales here, but the Grassmarket is better known as the location of the public gallows where executions took place until the 18th century, often providing entertainment for the jeering mob.
Victoria Street replaced the upper West Bow, which had zig-zagged steeply up to the Lawnmarket, causing consternation to those trying to haul goods to market. It is said to be haunted by a galloping headless charger ridden by a 17th-century resident, Major Weir, the âWizard of the West Bowâ, who was executed after confessing to a string of depravities.
West Bow in the times of the infamous Major Weir.
Public domain
The Covenantersâ Memorial, where the gibbet stood, was created in 1937 and recalls the many martyrs who died alongside common criminals. The hanging of religious dissenters peaked in the 1680s under Catholic James II, but the original Covenanters were signatories of the National Covenant of 1638, opposing imposition of the English form of Protestantism (for more information, click here).
The Grassmarket has some interesting small shops wedged between the restaurants and bars, and adjoining Victoria Street offers a wide range of curio shopping, with great vintage clothing to be found at Swish (No. 22â4). For hand-made Scottish woollies try Bill Baber Knitwear Design (66 Grassmarket), while Clarksons of Edinburgh at 87 West Bow is an exclusive jewellers specialising in gold wedding rings. For kids and child-like adults, Aha Ha Ha (99 West Bow) is a joke shop and fancy dress venue that is something of an institution.
Victoria Street is lined with a variety of shops.
Mockford & Bonetti/Apa Publications
A much more modern addition to the Grassmarket has been Scotlandâs National Centre for Dance, Dance Base (www.dancebase.co.uk), located at the northwestern end of the square. With an exciting programme of workshops and classes for all ages alongside a full festival line-up of events, itâs well worth finding out whatâs on.
Beautiful stained glass inside Greyfriars Kirk.
Douglas Macgilvray/Apa Publications
Statue of Greyfriars Bobby, who was buried near to his master, just inside the entrance to the churchyard.
Mockford & Bonetti/Apa Publications
West Bow
At West Bow, where the well stands, the wide Grassmarket splits into narrower roads. The Cowgate runs east along the lower edge of the Old Town, beneath the high arches of George IV and South Bridges. Once a route for cattle on their way to the grazings on the Burgh Muir, the street became fash...
