Driving northwards from Denpasar into the Gianyar region, the cacophony of south Bali recedes a little, depending upon exactly where one is headed. Shrines and temples dot landscapes of verdant rice paddies, soothing one back to sanity. The richly cultural Gianyar region was home to ancient kingdoms, extending from the centre of Bali down to the southern coast.
Holy spring at Pura Tirtha Empul.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Gianyar has given the island much of its reputation as a centre of creativity, born literally from the incredible fertility of its spring-fed, lava-enriched soil. With such bountiful harvests, the people had time to cultivate their artistic talents; the result is a high level of aesthetic excellence that extends even to the commercial arts and crafts industry. Ubud is one of Gianyarās main tourist centres and is easily accessible from all parts of the island.
A stone carver at work in Batubulan.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Denpasar to Ubud
The roads leading to Ubud are lined with countless villages, once isolated but nowadays nearly indistinguishable from one another in the continual sprawl. Non-stop driving might take just over an hour from Denpasar, but doing so would be a great pity as many villages along the way specialise in some kind of art form and are usually worth lingering at.
Batubulan
The first large village of note upon entering the region of Gianyar is Batubulan 1 [map] (Moonstone), stretching for about 2km (1 mile) and distinguishable from urban Denpasar only by the numerous paras stone-carving shops lining the road sides. Paras is composed of compressed clay and volcanic ash found in nearby ravines. Itās so soft and porous that the tropical climate wears it down, making it necessary for temple carvings to be replaced every few decades. Men usually carve in groups, copying in stone what their ancestors carved before them, and increasingly, what appeals to visitors.
Also in Batubulan is the Seniwati Gallery of Art, a showcase for female Indonesian artists and a source of income and empowerment (entry by appointment only; tel: 081-361 075485,).
Taman Burung Bali and Rimba Reptile Park
North of Batubulan is the Taman Burung Bali Bird Park 2 [map] (tel: 0361-299352; www.bali-bird-park.com; daily 9amā5.30pm). Paved paths lead through landscaped gardens where more than 1,000 specimens of over 250 exotic bird species live in well-designed aviaries. It is dedicated to the protection of mostly Indonesian birds; the endangered jalak putih (white Bali starlings) have been bred here in captivity for the first time in Bali.
Barong masks and costumes in the old royal palace, Puri Saren Agung, which hosts traditional dance performances nightly.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Ticket includes entry to the adjacent Rimba Reptile Park, which is home to one of the biggest collections of rare reptiles and amphibians in Indonesia, all living among lush tropical gardens.
Singapadu
Continue about 1km (.5 mile) north on the main road and turn right at a T-junction into Singapadu 3 [map] (Fighting Lions) village. Numerous wood-and-stone carving shops are interspersed among the houses, but the village is more famous for producing some of Baliās talented musicians and dancers. Take time to visit the workshop-home of I Wayan Tangguh (tel: 0361-298685), one of Baliās best mask makers, and his son, I Made Sutiarka. Look for the sign with his name on the right side of the main road. Here you will see a chunk of wood evolve into a beautiful work of art in addition to viewing his collection of exquisite masks.
Bali Zoo Park
Further along the road in Singapadu, on the left, is the family-friendly Bali Zoo Park 4 [map] (tel: 0361-294357; daily 9amā6pm). This 3.5-hectare (9-acre) landscaped zoo is where you will find animals other than birds ā like tigers, deer and camels ā including the beast after which Singapadu was named. Singa (lion) refers to the two royal brothers who padu (challenged) each other for the right to rule.
At Banjar Babakan in Sukawati, you can watch leather puppets being made at the home of the puppeteer I Wayan Nartha, located at the very end of a side street about 100 metres south of the market. Itās best to call ahead on tel: 0361-299080 to see if the house is open to receive visitors.
Celuk
From Singapadu, turn right at the T-junction and travel east to Celuk 5 [map] (Cove), synonymous with silver- and goldsmiths, and one of the wealthier villages in Bali. Shops along the way, less crowded and often cheaper than those along the main road, offer all kinds of sterling silver and gold jewellery and decorative objects. Stop to have a look in the artisan workshops which are usually small and dimly lit rooms crowded with workers, some not even in their teens. The intricate details obtained from using simple hand tools are amazing. As with most Balinese crafts, silversmithing is largely an art passed down from one generation to the next.
Shadow puppet in the making, Sukawati.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Sukawati
From Celuk, head east, then north to Sukawati 6 [map] (Beautiful Joy), once the centre of a powerful kingdom during the 18th century. Kain prada cloth, gold-leafed by hand in the past, is silkscreened by the metre by Sukawatiās villagers for costumes and shrines, and made into lovely temple parasols and dance fans. Look out for the road side shops selling these items.
Sukawati, however, is more famous for producing some of Baliās best dalang (puppeteers), who make their own wayang kulit, or leather puppets, delicately carved from thin cattle hide and then painted (for more information, click here). The dalangās work is very complicated and it takes years to master the craft. A...