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Accommodation
Thereās a huge range of accommodation in Sri Lanka, from basic family guesthouses offering a handful of simple fan rooms through to five-star palaces and dozens of alluring boutique hideaways, often in magical beachside or rural locations.
In the main tourist areas, budget travellers will find plenty of inexpensive guesthouses, most of them family-run. The best places offer comfortable lodgings, good home cooking and the chance to rub shoulders with the owners, grab some insights into local life and enjoy the kind of spontaneous hospitality which you wonāt find in more upmarket places. Rooms in most guesthouses come with attached bathroom, fan and (except in parts of the hill country) mosquito nets; some also offer air-conditioned rooms. Most places now have hot water, and pretty much everywhere has Wi-fi.
Mid-range hotels are relatively thinner on the ground, although again all the main tourist centres boast a decent selection of places halfway between the islandās simple guesthouses and the fancier hotels. These include traditional government Rest Houses, many of which have now been attractively upgraded, but which often preserve something of their former colonial ambience.
Large-scale four- and five-star hotels can be found throughout the country. Many are clustered along the west and south coasts, and there are also a few upmarket city hotels, plus hill-country and Cultural Triangle resorts. These generally offer stylish rooms and a good array of facilities including pool, restaurants and bars, and often an Ayurveda centre or spa.
A beguiling alternative to the mainstream five-stars is offered by the islandās burgeoning number of boutique hotels, usually with fewer than 20 rooms and often in marvellous natural settings ā remote stretches of beach, idyllic tea plantations and the like. These offer visitors the chance to sample contemporary Sri Lankan style at its most memorable, with superb design, an intimate atmosphere and top-notch cuisine ā equal to anything available anywhere in Asia, although at predictably expensive rates. Many boutique hotels occupy suave contemporary buildings, usually following the tropical-modernist template established by Geoffrey Bawa, although some can be found in restored colonial-era coastal and hill-country villas, offering an atmospheric taste of old Ceylon complete with all its period trappings.
An alternative (sometimes cheaper) to the islandās boutique hotels is provided by the numerous private villas (a kind of Sri Lankan equivalent of the French gĆ®te) that have sprung up in recent years. Many of these are found along the south coast around Galle, Unawatuna and Tangalla, and thereās a further selection in the hill country, many of them in restored colonial-era tea plantersā bungalows. For a good idea of whatās available see www.villasinsrilanka.com, www.boutiquesrilanka.com or www.reddottours.com.
Hotel chains
An increasing number of the major international chains now have hotels in Colombo (including Shangri-La, Hilton, Taj, Ramada and Mƶvenpick, plus a forthcoming Hyatt and ITC Maurya), although there are few international names outside the capital bar the new Shangri-La in Hambantota and the Taj at Bentota. A few big names in Colombo excepted, most of the islandās hotels are run by local companies, although quality and service are generally of international standards, as indeed are prices. The big three are Jetwing Hotels (tel: 011 470 9400; www.jetwinghotels.com); Aitken Spence (tel: 94 11 2 308 408; www.aitkenspencehotels.com), who operate a number of hotels under the āHeritanceā brand; and John Keells, who operate hotels under āCinnamonā (www.cinnamonhotels.com; tel: 011 216 1161) brand. Other local operators include Amaya Resorts (www.amayaresorts.com), Tangerine (www.tangerinehotels.com) and Serendib (www.serendibleisure.com).
Making a reservation
Popular places can fill up very quickly during peak season, so itās well worth booking as far in advance as possible. The vast majority of Sri Lankan accommodation, from humble guesthouses to five-star palaces, can now be reserved online, offering instant guaranteed reservations at the press of a button. Bear in mind, however, that at larger places you may get cheaper rates by checking the hotelās own website reservations system, while smaller guesthouses may offer discounts if you book with them directly by phone or email, since they donāt have to factor any online commission (usually costing them around 15 to 18 percent) into their price. If you do arrive somewhere without a reservation, it generally pays to avoid the suggestions of touts and tuktuk drivers, who will either be trying to flog substandard accommodation or take you to a place where they get commission ā which will then be added to your bill.
Recommended agencies, especially for more upmarket hotels and villas are: Boutique Sri Lanka (tel: 94 11 269 9213, www.boutiquesrilanka.com), Red Dot Tours (tel: 94 11 789 5810, www.reddottours.com) and Sri Lanka In Style (tel: 011 239 6666, www.srilankainstyle.com). Major Colombo hotels also have representatives in the arrivals section of the airport.
Rates
Sri Lanka is no longer the bargain it once was, and nowadays itās difficult to find any sort of accommodation for under $15ā20 a night for even the most basic double room (even a single bed in a hostel can sometimes cost more than this) ā while more upmarket hotels can easily top $200. Cheaper places quote prices in rupees, although more expensive places usually give rates in dollars (while along the west coast you might also occasionally see room rates quoted in euros).
Room rates vary somewhat throughout the year depending on the season and your bargaining skills, with prices sometimes drop as much as 50 percent from April to September/October.
Wherever youāre going, it pays to be aware of taxes. The government currently levies around 17 percent in a range of taxes on hotel rooms, while many places also add a 10 percent service charge. Cheaper places usually quote a ānetā rate inclusive of all taxes, although more upmarket places may not. Check in advance to see what is and isnāt included in the quoted prices ā an extra 27 percent added to your bill at the end of your stay in an exclusive boutique hotel may come as an unexpected, and not entirely pleasant, surprise.
Admission charges
Admission charges vary wildly. The top cultural sites, such as Sigiriya ($30), Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura (both $25), attract hefty charges, as do the isla...