Diary of A Tour in Greece, Turkey, Egypt, and The Holy Land

Mary G. Damer

• Publisher: Jazzybee Verlag
• Year: 2017
• ISBN:
  9783849650001
• Topic: History
• Subtopic: Egyptian Ancient History
• Index: History

That women of fashion should travel further than the magasins of Paris, or the cameo-shops of Rome, is meritorious: that they should keep journals while on their travels is industrious and creditable, but that they should publish the said journals is somewhat supererogatory. Mrs. Dawson Damer, however, pleads charity as her excuse for adding to the stock of pink-parasol literature; and really she is so unaffected and good-humoured, so free from affectation and factitious enthusiasm, that one can excuse the flimsiness of the work, for the sake of its artlessness. Having travelled with apparently little more preparation in the way of reading or thought than she would have made for a rummage of Beaudrant's stores, she describes to us all that she saw at Athens; all the wonders of Constantinople; baths, mosques, bazaars; the Holy City of Jerusalem, a journey across the desert and the gorgeous cherry-coloured umbrella, which shaded Mehemet Ali, the most royal piece of finery she saw at Alexandria. In short, the good-humoured, superficial, positive Londoner is in every page of her journals.

 

VOLUME 1

DIARY. CHAPTER I.

Pleasurable anticipations of the author when about to visit Greece—Voyage from Trieste, in “The Prince Metternich”—Ancona — Trajan's Arch— Island of Ulysses—Corfu—Patras—Picturesque groups of the Greek inhabitants—The Corsair and Giaour—The Jew.

TRIESTE, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 1st, 1839.

The long-expected day had at length arrived on which we were to commence that part of our travels, to which we had so eagerly looked forward; for, delighted as we had been with all we had hitherto seen, we could not help anticipating a great increase of pleasure in visiting countries which could afford us such a total change of scene, and interest of so different a character.

By the friendly aid of Count Walstein, we secured the best places on board “The Prince Metternich,” and sailed from Trieste at four o'clock, on a most delightful afternoon. The accommodation was much more roomy than I had dared to hope for, and I was much pleased to find the dispositions of the three lady passengers on board as airy as my own, with respect to cabin arrangements. Mrs. Joyce, one of them, with whom I had made acquaintance the day before, was proceeding with her nice little boy, to join her family at Alexandria, in company with Madame Pastré and her husband, who is one of the principal merchants of Marseilles, and who was now going to Egypt on business connected with the Pacha.

The weather is perfect, and the vesse without disagreeable motion, so that we shall rest most comfortably; but such a temperature, and such general bien-etre, we can hardly venture to think will continue.

WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 2ND.

Arrived, at eight in the morning, off Ancona, where we landed, in the hope of going to Loretto, but were much disappointed to find that we had little more than six hours to spare, for an expedition which required at least seven. We, however, saw Trajan's Arch, which is characterized by great simplicity, and beauty of proportion. The bas-reliefs have been stripped from it, but the marble looks as pure and as white as on the day it was first set up.

On a promontory above the town is an interesting duomo, with a facade of the 11th century, built on a most commanding position, where formerly stood the Temple of Juno, of which a dozen columns, still to be seen in the interior, are evident remains.

The evening passed off most delightfully on board; but in the night the wind changed, as did our spirits in proportion.

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 3RD.

A sad day for unpractised sailors: our poor doctor so unwell as to require all the nursing we might have looked for at his hands. A small party only met at dinner, in consequence of the weather; but, in the evening, the wind lulled, and enabled us to get on deck once more.

We did not catch a glimpse of land during the whole day.

FRIDAY, OCTOBER 4TH.

A quiet night, followed by a lovely morning; all the ladies working and reading on deck: but the wind being still against us, prevented our arriving at Corfu before sunset.

We passed the very beautiful little isle of Ulysses, and almost immediately the view of the approach to Corfu opened upon us, which is perfectly enchanting. The citadel is perched on the summit of a high rock, which is almost touched by another, equally picturesque; but the effect is a little diminished by the straight line caused by the erection of a new military hospital.

The coast of Albania is only four miles distant, and the forms of its mountains, most beautifully traced by the setting sun, furnished a background worthy of the rest of the landscape.

Sir George B——y came out for us in his boat; and the effect of seeing arms presented by English troops, and English signs and names attached to the shabby little shops, was satisfactory after so considerable an absence from our own country. Luckily for us we were comfortably lodged by Sir George B——y; for the alberghi of the Cavallo Bianco and Bella Venezcia are described as very dirty, and thickly populated.

M. and Madame Pastré had also been fortunate enough to escape these bad inns: a very amusing fellow-passenger, one Signor Steffano, having afforded them hospitality. He was, in appearance, a perfect Sir John Falstaff; and even when a little paled from the effect of the roughness of the sea, was still busy with his basket, which he had taken care to store at Trieste with all kinds of good things; which, however, he dispensed with a most liberal hand.

SATURDAY, OCTOBER, 5TH.

While George went to examine the fortifications with Sir G. B——y, Minney and myself accompanied Mrs. R——y on an expedition into the interior of the island.

We drove to the governor's campagne, now abandoned on account of the malaria, which has prevailed there since July. The hedge-rows were composed of cactus and aloes, at least seven feet high. The situation of the house somewhat reminded us of the Villa Rocca Romana, at Naples.

We drove to several points, each commanding a varied, but equally fine view; but our expedition was a little abridged by our being obliged to be on board by half past twelve.

The view of Corfu, for the first two hours after leaving it, seemed quite as magnificent as the approach the day before; but we had no little island so pretty as that of Ulysses to pass. Cephalonia and St. Mauro we saw , but at some distance.

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 6TH.

Arrived at Patras, at seven in the morning; and now, for the first time, we set foot in real Greece.

We walked up to Mr. C., our consul's house, which is situated at the highest point of the town. The effect produced upon us by the variety and beauty of the oriental costume served to cheat the length and heat of the walk; for, at every step, I was longing to have some striking group committed to our sketch-book.

It being Sunday, the Greeks were in their best costumes; that of the women was not so striking as the men's, owing chiefly to their caps being so unbecoming. Some of the groups were playing at cards, which at the cafés was the universal occupation. Many of them were sketched by Mons. Chacaton, and they generally included one or more fine and venerable-looking heads, which, till now, one had never seen but in a Rembrandt or a Titian.

The brightness of the atmosphere, and the beauty and variety of the tints around us, would of themselves have almost repaid us for our week's voyage.

The wind was too high and unfavourable for our projected voyage down the gulf of Lepanto, whence we had hoped to get across to Parnassus and Delphi, and to reach Athens by this route; but after having made arrangements for guides and horses, and caused a perfect massacre in the poultry-yard, we were forced to make up our minds to put off this project until after our arrival at the Grecian capital, where we had the satisfaction of hearing that Lords A——y and R——y had arrived a few days before.

The delightful calm has accompanied us from Trieste, and our agreeable society on board has made our voyage really a party of pleasure.

 

MONDAY, OCTOBER 7TH.

In the night we passed Zante, and, in the course of the morning, Modon and Coron, the western points of the Morea. Here the Corsair and Giaour furnished us with all the names of the promontories and islands.

We did not fail to look into Navarino, as we passed close to it; but the coast, generally speaking, even of Arcadia, was not very striking.

We doubled Cape Matapan very successfully; but off the island of Cerigo, within twelve hours of the Peiraeus, the wind changed, and blew directly in our teeth so strongly, that the pitching of the vessel made it impossible for us to enjoy a moment's rest during the night, and finally lengthened our voyage by at least seven hours.

George had much curious conversation with one of our fellow-passengers, who is a Jew, on his way to Smyrna on a trading speculation. He spoke only English, and wherever he went depended on his Talmud and his own nation for friends and protection. He appeared a sincere enthusiast, and wrapped up in his mysticism.

CHAPTER II.

Entrance into the AEgean Sea—The Duke of Wellington's fac-simile—A ball at Athens—Wretched appearance of the town—The King's new Palace —Ruins of the Temple of Jupiter Olympus—The Acropolis—The Parthenon.

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 8TH.

We passed close to the island of Ægina, and had a fine view of its Temple, of which sixteen columns of marble still remain standing.

The entrance into the AEgean Sea is very fine. The island itself, with the mountains of the Morea and the Acropolis of Corinth in the distance, were on our left. In front lay Salamis, and the mountains above Megara and Eleusis. The Acropolis of Athens was plainly visible; and behind it, Hymettus and Pentelicus. To the right, the range of hills in which were situated the celebrated silver mines of Laureium, and which terminate in the promontory of Sunium, or Colonna.

We reached the Peiraeus at two o'clock, and were told, on our arrival, that Lord R——y, with Sir A. B——d, and Mr. H——y, were in quarantine.

Th...

Table of contents

• TO THE READER.
• VOLUME 1
• CHAPTER II.
• CHAPTER III.
• CHAPTER IV.
• CHAPTER V.
• CHAPTER VI.
• CHAPTER VII.
• CHAPTER VIII.
• CHAPTER IX.
• CHAPTER X.
• CHAPTER XI.
• CHAPTER XII.
• CHAPTER XIII.
• CHAPTER XIV.
• CHAPTER XV.
• CHAPTER XVI.
• CHAPTER XVII.
• CHAPTER XVIII.
• CHAPTER XIX.
• CHAPTER XX.
• CHAPTER XXI.
• CHAPTER XXII.
• VOLUME 2
• CHAPTER II.
• CHAPTER III.
• CHAPTER IV.
• CHAPTER V.
• CHAPTER VI.
• CHAPTER VII.
• CHAPTER VIII.
• CHAPTER IX.
• CHAPTER X.
• CHAPTER XI.
• CHAPTER XII.
• CHAPTER XIII.
• CHAPTER XIV.
• APPENDIX. (No. I.) THOUGHTS ON THE QUESTION OF THE EAST.
• APPENDIX III. COMING OF THE MESSIAH.
• APPENDIX IV. RETURN OF THE JEWS TO THE HOLY LAND.