Masterpieces of Women's Costume of the 18th and 19th Centuries

Aline Bernstein

• Publisher: Dover Publications
• Year: 2014
• ISBN:
  9780486136592
• Topic: Design
• Subtopic: Design della moda

Splendid view of elegant dresses, expertly rendered by noted theatrical designer, includes finely detailed illustrations of 32 complete costumes and three blouses, shown in color and black-and-white. Here are exquisitely embroidered, full-skirted dresses circa 1700, a high-waisted Empire dress (1820), a magnificent silk dress with an extended bustle and pleated overskirt (1880), more.

DESCRIPTIONS OF THE PLATES

(For this edition, the thirty-two color plates appear in black and white in their original positions, and in color in an eight-page insert after page 52.)

1-2

ENGLISH, about 1700–1710

1—Color Plate

Brown silk dress. The dress is exquisitely embroidered with white threads, the pattern is supposedly composed of flowers that grew in the gardens of Hampton Court. It is believed that this dress belonged to Queen Anne.

2—Accessories

Hair arrangement, softly rolled back, with puffs at side and long curls hanging to the shoulder, natural color. Pannier of metal, hinged to make it flexible, covered with linen and held together with linen tapes. Petticoat of warm shade of ecru silk, beautifully quilted, linen top held with a drawstring of linen tape. Corset of taupe silk, brocaded with magenta and green, front lacing. Shoes of green brocade, many colors, and gold thread.

3-4-5-6

ITALIAN, first half of the 18th Century

3—Color Plate

A dress of soft sage green. The silk is brocaded in grays, cream, darker green and silver, and is trimmed with a gray braid, applied in curved forms. It is from Venice, and is accompanied by typical Venetian accessories.

4—Accessories

Corset of peacock blue satin sewn with rose-colored threads, with rose-colored ribbon trimming, front lacing. Hat of black silk plush, tricorne shape, laced with silver. Mantilla, black lace, with a netted piece that fits over the head and is worn under the hat. Gloves of blue kid, with brown ornament. Shoes of black leather, very pointed turned-up toes.

5—Accessories

Hair arrangement, powdered, softly drawn back from the forehead, waved, with curls at the side and nape of the neck. Mask of black papier-maché. Pannier of hand-woven natural color linen, stiffened with metal, hinged, and tied with linen tapes.

6—Pattern Plate

7-8

FRENCH, last half of the 18th Century

7—Color Plate

Dress of heavily ribbed green silk. The silk is brocaded with a floral pattern in bouquets and running vines, mostly roses, in shades of pink, green, and gold color. The trimming is composed of bands of the silk, laid in box pleats and edged with a dainty open-work galloon of rose and gold threads. The pattern of the silk is called Dauphine, in compliment to Marie Antoinette upon her arrival in France.

8—Accessories

Shift of fine linen, buttoned at front, the ruffles edged with handsewn hem. Pannier of coarsely woven linen, stiffened with metal. Shoes of green silk, brocaded with rose and gold. Corset of yellow hand-woven linen; back lacing.

9-10

ENGLISH, middle of the 18th Century

9—Color Plate

Dress of a rich shade of yellow silk. It is embroidered with flowers in a bold design in brilliant colors, the embroidery evidently done on the silk before the dress was made up. The sleeve ruffles are edged with purple ribbon.

10—Accessories

Hair arrangement, drawn up and back from the brow, with two rolls of hair outlining the head; curls at side and nape of neck, tied with a bow. Lightly powdered. Corset of red silk, stiffened with reed. Back lacing, and a short front lacing as well. Petticoat of green taffeta silk, richly and exquisitely quilted. The shoes are of heavy corded green silk with leather heels, accompanied by a clog. The clog is a leather overshoe, used against rain as we u...

Table of contents

• Cover
• Title Page
• Copyright Page
• Foreword
• Contents
• Introduction
• Descriptions of the Plates