These conversations, of which I was accustomed, especially in later years, to record a summary, took place during the gatherings that extended from the days of the Café Opéra in 1960 to the appearance of this book in 2004.
Dialogs
Café Opéra, 1960
The cafĂ© has three floors. The first looks directly over the beautiful square dominated by the elegant old wooden opera building, which provided a focus for the place and contributed to the special atmosphere of the cityâs downtown area, with its European layout and architecture. The first floor was a cafĂ© distinguished by its elegance, where both men and women sat, and where waterpipes with authentic âPersianâ tobacco were available; to my amazement I would observe women who had passed middle age smoking waterpipes at a time when it was unusual to see women smoking in public.
One ascended to the second floor via a side entrance with a narrow spiral stairway that gave onto an oblong hall containing a European-style cafĂ©, where there were no waterpipes, only hot and cold drinks. Here the weekly symposium that Naguib Mahfouz had initiated in 1954 (the year in which I was born) held its meetings. Entire generations passed through this group, and here the writers of the sixties discovered one another. In other words, this weekly encounter abbreviated long stretches of time that might otherwise have ended without my meeting Mohamed El-Bisatie, Yusuf al-Qaâid, Ibrahim Asian, Sabry Hafez, the late Galal al-Sayyid, and others.
On the third floor there was a nightclub run by Artiste Safiya Hilmi. The third floor was open for business after ten oâclock in the evening, and Hilmi, who was a celebrated performer from Badiâa Masabniâs troupe, gave her name to the entire building.
In the first-floor cafĂ©, I listened to the conversations of those present, who arranged themselves around Naguib Mahfouzâconversations which, had it been possible to preserve them for posterity, would have provided an extraordinary record of the discussions that took place among the intellectuals of the period. The symposium began at ten and ended at half-past one. The Master, with his customary discipline, provided the continuity of regular hours to the group. He was always the focus of the group. Even when the talk turned away from him and those present starting discussing things among themselves, he remained the center around whom everyone else was in orbit.
One morning I arrived early and was startled to find myself alone, face to face with the Master. I sat in silence while he observed me with sparkling eyes.
Suddenly he asked me, âGamal, why do you write?â
I was taken aback by the question but replied immediately, âI write because I want to write.â
He nodded. When I recall that brief conversation, it opens up for me all our other conversations, conversations that were to continue throughout the succeeding years. When I recall his tone of voice, I am almost certain that he was asking himself why he wrote, why the writer writes. Once in later years, he told me that writing was like an instinct, like sex, like the desire for life, like eating, hunger, repletion.
It may be that what he said then was an answer to the question he had asked me that morning long ago during the sixties of the last century.
Settlement!
Fishawiâs
AUGUST 1967
The events of June dominate our thoughts, our spirits, and our moods. Against his normal practice, he had expressed a desire to meet us at Fishawiâs, and this provided another opportunity for a private encounter with him, as only a very limited number of his friends attended.
We were three: Yusuf al-Qaâid, Ismaâil âAdli, and myself. We talked about what was happening and what might happen. Suddenly, he said, âYou know, everyone ⊠.â
We looked at him.
âIâm going to tell you my opinion and I know it may upset you.â
We listened even more attentively. He said, âIf we donât have the capability to confront Israel militarily, we have to try and find a means to bring about a settlement.â
We looked at him in stupefaction.
This was in August, 1967.
Sadness
Café Riche
NOVEMBER 1980
I was sad, grief-stricken, the wound still fresh, hot, and bleeding. It started following the unexpected passing away of my father when I was far from home. I told him that I would never be able to get over my fatherâs sudden departure, that I would never ever see him again, never meet him again.
He said, âHow do you know, Gamal? Just as matter is transformed into other forms, maybe the consciousness lives on in some form. Who are we to insist that a meeting is impossible?â
Fishawiâs
A WINTERâS MORNING, 1988
I am listening to him speak of his memories of Cairo, and from this I realize how its former landmarks were and know what it has become.
He said, âThere used to be a cinema called Je Sais where the Benzion department store now stands on âImad al-Din Street. That was where I heard Umm Kulthum. She used to put on her concerts in the cinema theater and she could make herself audible throughout a hall filled with three thousand people without a microphone.â
After a few moments of silence, he added, âI would listen to Umm Kulthum in the flesh and then listen to the same song recorded and Iâd find a great difference. Of course, the real thing was much better.â
Fishawiâs
WEDNESDAY, A WINTERâS MORNING, 1989
He said, ââAli al-Gharbi was one of the famous neighborhood gang leaders, a famous procurer, and, at the same time, one of Cairoâs most famous homosexuals. When the police caught him, there were lots of scandals. It was one of Cairoâs big incidents.â
The Ali Baba Café
A SPRING MORNING, 1989
I asked him, âWhich is dearer to your heart, The Harafish or Morning and Evening Talk (Hadith al-sabah wa-l-masaâ)?â
He said, âI think The Harafish⊠. Sometimes one is influenced by other peopleâs opinions.â
I asked him, âWhat about the unpublished novels?â
He said, âThere are three. A novel whose hero is a soccer player, which I wrote in the forties and tore up, a novel about the countryside which I didnât publish and whose whereabouts now I donât know because I donât keep drafts, and another social novel, the draft of which may be with the director Khayri Bishara.â
Farah Boat
SUMMER 1991
He said, âWhen a woman got into difficulties and started down the path of deviant behavior, sheâd go to the police to register her name and sheâd say to the officer, âI want to âwalk in al-waâdââ (meaning, âaccept Godâs promise (waâd) for me,â or âaccept my fateâ). This was how sheâd obtain a license to practice prostitution. Once the English judge bent over to the Egyptian assistant judge sitting on his right and asked him, âWhere is this place called al-Waâd, my friend?ââ
Farah Boat
TUESDAY 27 OCTOBER 1992
The birthday of Director Tawfiq Salih, former member of the Riffraff. Mahfouz recalls his memories of the cinema:
âThe first cinema I knew was at the Egyptian Club Hotel, near the mosque of Our Master Husayn. It was a revelation to me. We looked out from it over an amazing world of the imagination. All the films were foreign. The translation was on an oblong screen to one side and if it was out of sync with the scene weâd shout, âCorrection! Correction!â and the man running the cinema would adjust the translation to fit the scene. The music was live, with a clever musician playing the piano next to the screen. Sometimes a bunch of us would go and weâd wake the owner of the cinema up to put on the movie for us.â
He said, âI knew the CinĂ©ma Olympia in âAbd al-âAziz Street. On the same street there were also the CinĂ©ma IdĂ©al and the CinĂ©ma Royal. The CinĂ©ma Olympia used to print a magazine called News of the Stars. Mary Pickford was my favorite. I read that she had married Douglas Fairbanks. On al-Gaysh Street were CinĂ©ma Ramses, CinĂ©ma Misr, CinĂ©ma Hollywood; there were also CinĂ©ma Suhayr close to al-âAbbasiya, CinĂ©ma al-BelvĂ©dĂšre and CinĂ©ma Plaza in al-Zahir, CinĂ©ma al-Fath in al-Gamaliya, and CinĂ©ma Je Sais for French films on âImad al-Din Street.â
He asks, âHow many of these movie houses are left now?â
I say, âOnly CinĂ©ma Olympia and CinĂ©ma Hollywood.â
(On Tawfiq Salihâs birthday we broke with tradition and didnât have dinner on the Farah Boat, which was unusual, even unique. We went instead to Christoâs Restaurant at the end of Pyramids Road, which specializes in fish and where Mahfouz used to take the family every Friday.)
He said, âI only started liking fish at an advanced age. I went to Raâs al-Barr where a friend invited me to a meal of fish. He asked me what Iâd like and I said, âPerch, catfish, eels.â They all laughed and my friend said, âThose fishes that you like are what we feed to our fish.ââ
I asked him laughing, âAnd what about rabbit?â
He said, âI used to be afraid to eat it because one day I saw my mother skinning one after it had been slaughtered!â
Farah Boat
OCTOBER 1992
Earthquake Jokes
The following jokes were told on Tuesday evening:
They caught the guy who caused the earthquake and he confessed.
These days, when they walk in procession with the bride, they sing, âQuake your hips, you pretty one, you cute one.â
They said, âThe townâs shaking and dancing!â We said, âWeâll take up a collection for the musicians!â (Meaning that the government was profiting from donations in aid of the victims.)
Sheraton Coffee Shop
SUMMER 1995
It was our first time in this place, which is designed for the meetings of lovers and businessmen. Everyone talks in low voices. We, on the other hand, had to talk loudly, which was out of the question there. We sat down and fidgeted. In front of us sat a man from the Arabian Peninsula, wearing a robe and a pointed beard. He started to exchange conversation with us as he drank his cold beer. He began with the American elections.
âThat Bush, I swear heâs a nice guy.â
Then he started lamenting the fate of Islam and how little respect it got from its own followers. He said that Islam had âarrived as a stranger and would leave as a strangerâââYes, by God!â
Heâd say that phrase and follow it with a swig of beer. Our session didnât last long. We got up and left.
Farah Boat
FALL 1992
He said, âI read some examples of the anti-novel and came out of the experience no wiser than I went in. Marguerite Duras, however, is a different proposition: in her work I found a story, an issue, and human beings.â
Yusuf al-Qaâid spoke of the ranking of writers in France according to public opinion surveys. Duras was the first and Ben Jelloun the twenty-eighth.
Mahfouz said, âItâs the media. They can help to get a writer known for a certain period even if he doesnât have any real value. The media donât add any real value. Take, for example, the novel Ulysses: every author and reader is bound to nod in admiration, but the number of people who have actually read it remains very limited.â
Farah Boat
11 NOVEMBER 1992
The earthquake, which had taken place at one in the afternoon, dominated the gathering. For me, the main feeling was one of dejection: that is the way I face events of universal purport. A joke or two could not dispel the tyranny of my mysterious, hidden melancholy.
I donât know why I asked him about beginnings; perhaps because yesterday I looked through the first story of his to be published,...