Introduction
Washoku, literally âJapanese foodâ, was inscribed in the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) in December 2013. Its official title, âWashoku, traditional dietary cultures of the Japanese, notably for the celebration of New Yearâ, reflects the desire of the Japanese government to have the idea of âJapanese foodâ represented by traditional New Year cuisine, called osechi ryĆri. This will be a difficult undertaking: osechi ryĆri will have to supersede the popularity of foods spearheading todayâs global boom in Japanese cuisine and, rather improbably, it will have to replace the superstar among them all, sushi.
When introduced to North America early after the Second World War, most Americans dismissed sushi as unappetizing ârice sandwichesâ of raw fish (Issenberg 2007). Today, sushi has become an aesthetically pleasing, healthy and desirable restaurant and snack food that is readily available in places as diverse as neighbourhood cafes and tea salons, airport kiosks, starred restaurants, hotel buffets and sandwich shops around the world. Many authors trace the shift in attitudes towards sushi from around the 1960s, when Japanese food attained haute cuisine status in the United States on the heels of Japanâs rapid economic ascent. Sushi eventually entered the diet of âhipâ, health-conscious advocates in the US West Coast in the 1970s and quickly spread around North America, finally taking root in continental Europe and Great Britain by the 1990s (Bestor 2000; Cwiertka 2001; Sakamoto and Allen 2011).
The boom has not abated since, and is reflected in the surge of sushi restaurants established worldwide. Official statistics place the current number of Japanese food establishments abroad at around 118,000, nearly fivefold from the 24,000 counted in 2006 when Japan began collecting data through its diplomatic offices (âNumberâ 2017). Although the popularity of ramen and other noodle restaurants is also fuelling the boom, sushi still holds dominion over the Japanese foodscape, with an estimated 50,000 of all Japanese restaurants overseas identified as sushi shops (âSekaiâ 2017). Sushiâs universal image as healthy food and the rise of income levels in many parts of the world have made it more popular than ever. Today, sushi is made, sold and eaten in a bewildering array of styles, containing anything from goat meat to cheese, durian, chocolate and every other food item not necessarily Japanese in provenance or origin (Fukue 2012). Although Japanese are proud of sushiâs global popularity, their pride is tempered by anxiety over the seemingly âun-Japaneseâ ways in which sushi is often unrecognizably transformed abroad. Broadcast media and bloggers frequently assail the many âblasphemousâ styles of sushi in the world, reacting with amusement, shock, humiliation as well as alarm (Sakamoto and Allen 2011).
The anxiety over sushi losing its inherent âJapanesenessâ came to a head in 2006 with the Japanese governmentâs scheme to regulate Japanese restaurants overseas, whereby inspectors would come frequently unannounced to check the menu and food preparation methods and judge the establishmentâs âauthenticityâ as a Japanese restaurant. Mockingly called the âSushi Policeâ project in a widely circulated report in the Washington Post, the initiative was criticized even in Japan for its clandestine methods and nationalistic bent; it was discontinued not long after (Faiola 2006). In recent years, though, the government has launched several accreditation and certification programmes that appear to be taking over the duties of the defunct âSushi Policeâ, reflecting the still-existing anxiety over the perceived bastardization of Japanese food abroad. The many metamorphoses of sushi are not the sole prerogative of foreigners who do not know any better, however. In many cases, it is the Japanese, most often restaurateurs and chefs, who are behind drastic transformations. The California roll, for example, one of the earliest ânon-Japaneseâ sushi styles that is now the most ubiquitous outside Japan, was invented by a Japanese sushi chef based in North America in the 1970s or earlier. Japanese sushi chefs, however, are rarely questioned, much less criticized, when their handiwork transcends conventional ideas and rules about Japanese sushi and food tradition. Their cultural identity as Japanese, reinforced by background experience in Japan, automatically legitimizes their roles in (re)creating Japanese food culture and discourse, so much so that many in Japan and outside accept these roles outright, even celebrating them at times.
One suspects such legitimization and acknowledgement of the Japanese chefâs roles to be prime reasons for minimal academic inquiry on Japanese chefs, especially sushi chefs abroad. This chapter is an attempt to address the deficiency as it is also a prolegomenon to research on the role of Japanese sushi chefs within the context of the global boom in Japanese cuisine. Drawing from recent literature and fieldwork in Japan and the Philippines, this study investigates the backgrounds and current situation of sushi chefs âat homeâ in Japan who, as the discussion below will show, are going through major and revolutionary shifts affecting their personal and professional identities as a result of the global popularity of Japanese food. From this discussion, the chapter will then consider the current situation of Japanese sushi chefs abroad, and through specific examples discuss their roles in shaping Japanese food culture outside Japan today.
While the global boom in Japanese food has boosted academic research on sushi in numerous contexts and disciplines, including fields as diverse as business management, medicine, communication and even pragmatics, hardly any studies have focused on the Japanese chef. There is simply a dearth of scholarly inquiry on the subject, and no study in English so far has specifically dealt with the Japanese sushi chef abroad. This absence was lamented by a recent paper in Japanese (Wang 2015). The paper investigated labour issues through the career development of four Japanese sushi chefs at home in Japan and discussed working conditions amid problems affecting the food industry, like deflation and encroaching mechanization. It briefly delineated the chefsâ education and training, emphasizing that none of them studied beyond high school as they trained through the âtraditionalâ route, that is, through several yearsâ apprenticeship under sushi chef masters.
Another paper by the same author followed in 2016, with the research field shifting to China (Wang 2016). Although it discussed the career development of sushi chefs and restaurateurs (all Chinese nationals) at large-scale, popular sushi restaurants in Shanghai, the paper was more focused on the means by which they adapted Japanese ingredients, food preparation and service styles to the local market. Nonetheless, with their focus on sushi chefs, this paper and its predecessor are novel contributions to the literature, even if limited to Japanese-language readership.
One paper in English that profiled Japanese celebrity chef Nobuyuki âNobuâ Matsuhisa supplements the literature to some degree (Imai 2010). In this study, Nobu â who trained in Japan before working abroad â was discussed in the context of todayâs Japanese food boom, delineating how âNobu-style, hybridized Japanese foodâ as influenced by North and South American cuisines resulted in global fame for the chef and his culinary brand. The study pointed to Nobuâs restaurant locations in the worldâs major cities as key to Nobuâs success, postulating that these locations created a viable network that simultaneously supported and contained the flow of people, materials and information, thereby âmaintaining [Nobuâs] authenticityâ on a consistent level everywhere. While this study provided an acute explanation of one Japanese chefâs influence in promoting Japanese cuisine globally, it curiously omitted background account of Nobuâs years of sushi chef training in his country of birth, which likely would have had a large impact on his approaches to Japanese food.
Another paper provided similarly framed profiles of Japanese chefârestaurateurs in Melbourne, Australia (Hamada and Stevens 2014). It discussed âkey figures in the Melbourne Japanese culinary sceneâ and the ways they negotiated âJapanesenessâ personally and through their food and environments in order to stay âauthenticâ and âoriginalâ yet also appeal to local dining tastes (p. 72). The authors described the negotiation process as a form of âtranslationâ, whereby the foreign is made understandable and palatable to local consumers even as the translated object (Japanese food) remains different.
But, here again, discussion on the chefsâ personal history, education and training was missing. Any scholarly inquiry on chefs, Japanese or not, working in or outside Japan, specializing in sushi or otherwise, would necessitate investigation and discussion on their backgrounds, particularly their formative culinary training and education in their home countries. Such information becomes more critical in the study of Japanese chefs abroad, as it forms the foundation on which the chefs shape their discourse on Japanese food and present it, along with their food and their own selves, to the world at large. This chapter will initiate the discussion with an investigation of sushi chef education and training in Japan.
The sushi chef at home
âTraditionalâ training for sushi chefs in Japan can involve different approaches depending on factors such as the location of the training â in a big-city restaurant or in a small-town establishment, for example â as well as the personalities and attitudes of both trainer and trainee. Almost all traditional sushi chef training regimens, however, follow trajectories described in Wangâs 2015 paper.
The first one to two years of apprenticeship consist mostly of menial labour unrelated to actual sushi making, usually cleaning and washing up duties. In the succeeding years, trainees are gradually allowed to assist in food preparation. Still later, they are taught different kitchen techniques and customer service skills. Only after mastering a bevy of skills are they finally acknowledged as sushi chefs, all in all a process that takes many years. All aspects of the training, including kitchen duties and transmission of techniques, even timing of advancement to the next stages and final acknowledgement as a âproperâ sushi chef is left to the discretion of the sushi chef master, usually the owner or head chef of the sushi restaurant where the training takes place.
One veteran chef in the study narrated his experiences in the first five years of a two-decade career (including nearly a decade as apprentice), vividly describing typical on-the-job training of the fledgling chef, as follows:
Basically I did as I was told. ⊠Work started from eight in the morning when I helped buy ingredients from the market, and it would go on to about 12:30 midnight; it was a cycle of shopping, cleaning, delivering food, working in the lunch hall, assisting in preparing ingredients in the kitchen, cleaning up after deliveries. (Wang 2015: 10) (authorâs translation)
In his early years, he did not make sushi at all. While still apprenticing on this daily routine, he moved to another sushi restaurant to continue job training, working equally long hours. He finally attained the head chef position and was allowed to serve customers directly. This chefâs account of tough training is not unusual: years of working long hours and performing physically taxing jobs have long defined traditional sushi chef education in Japan. All the Japanese chefs in Wangâs paper underwent difficult and long years of training; it is more than likely that Nobu, too, as a trained sushi chef, went through severe experiences early in his career.
The tough, on-the-job training narrative is characteristic of shokunin (artisan/craftsperson) training in Japan. While the term shokunin usually refers to skilled workers in the arts and crafts (e.g. carpentry, swordsmithing, pottery), it is also applied to chefs in certain traditional professions, with the sushi chef as perhaps the most representative. In the Japanese language, sushi chefs are called sushi shokunin, literally âsushi artisansâ, and not âchefsâ (ryĆrinin), with the implication that they underwent equally rigorous and lengthy training as their counterparts in the arts and crafts. Indeed, many in Japan expect sushi chefs to have undertaken apprenticeship akin to shokunin, usually lasting an average of ten years. âIt takes ten years to make a good sushi chefâ, as the chairman of the government-mandated World Sushi Skills Institute declared (Booth 2017: 215). Another chef explained: âIt takes three years before you can master the nigiri [hand-moulded sushi], and five years before you perfect maki sushi, the roll, and you need ten years before you become a full-fledged sushi masterâ (Tanikawa 2010). One of Japanâs largest job-hunting sites for careers in the food industry outlined these ten years in more detail through a blog post, as follows:
- Year 1: Washing/Cleaning duties, food delivery, hall duties
- Years 2â3: Boiling rice, preparing shellfish and small fish, cooking eggs, preparing food for restaurant and kitchen staff
- Years 4â6: Assisting in counter work, making maki and other rolls
- Years 7â9: Making nigiri
- Year 10: Becoming a full-fledged sushi chef. (âKyĆ«jinâ 2015) (authorâs translation)
The blog also described the oft-cited industry standard of âthree years of boiling rice and eight years of nigiriâ as mandatory experience for all who aspire to the profession. This idea of tough sushi chef training is by no means acknowledged only in Japan. Many non-Japanese scholars express similar views, as in the following comment by anthropologist Theodore Bestor: âA sushi chef may spend 10 years as an apprentice, the first couple just learning how to cook rice, before even touching a knifeâ (2001: 36).
Most recently, however, many within and outside the Japanese food industry are challenging this idea of chef training. In late 2015, Takafumi Horie, one of Japanâs most outspoken business entrepreneurs...