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THE U.S. SPACE AND ROCKET CENTER ANNOUNCES ITSELF FROM miles away, with a needle against the sky that orients, at a glance, anyone in Huntsville, Alabama: if you can see the Saturn V, you can place where you are.
The rocket towers 363 feet over an especially smart precinct of a smart city in a state largely uncelebrated for its smarts. Just to the north lies a University of Alabama campus big on science and engineering. Clustered nearby are dozens of high-tech companies doing business behind locked doors and security cameras. South of the Saturn V lies the magnet for this brainpower: the George C. Marshall Space Flight Center. The place that produced the rockets that carried America to the moon.
The Saturn is a well-executed fake, erected in 1999 to mark the thirtieth anniversary of the first lunar landing. The U.S. Space and Rocket Center is not part of the National Aeronautics and Space Administration, the federal agency that achieved that landing; itâs a museum operated by the state of Alabama. But itâs a good one, with an impressive collection of genuine space hardware and a world-famous Space Camp for aspiring astronauts, and with one of the earthâs three surviving real Saturn Vs on display inside.
I pulled into town one Wednesday in April 2019, spied the needle on the distant horizon, and followed it to the Space and Rocket Center. The mock Saturn had just received fresh paint in preparation for the fiftieth anniversary of that first moon landing, and the museumâs gift shop was stocked full of T-shirts, ball caps, coffee mugs, and toys commemorating July 20, 1969. It being a school day, only a few customers browsed the shop. Most were older than meânot surprising, perhaps, as I could recall little about Apollo 11; I remembered my parentsâ excitement over the landing more than the event itself. It wasnât until the last few Apollo missions that I paid much mind to what was happening up there. By then, I was a teenager, and some mornings read a newspaper. Plus, weâd moved to Houston, home to the astronauts and NASAâs center for manned spaceflight, and my eighth-grade classmates actually discussed lunar exploration.
But I remembered those later missions, too, for a distinction that set them apart, a new piece of gear the astronauts of Apollos 15, 16, and 17 carried with them. An addition that had redefined lunar exploration, space science, and NASAâs expectations of what could be achieved in brief visits to the moonâs inhospitable surface. The gift shop had no wares memorializing that transformative hardware, but I happened to know I could find it on display in the museum proper. Which is why I had driven eight hours to Huntsville: to see it in person, and to meet a man central to its creation.
My ticket bought me into the museumâs centerpiece building, the Davidson Center for Space Exploration. Its main floor is a single cavernous room, 476 feet long, 90 wide, and six stories high, down the middle of which runs its main exhibit. The Saturn V is displayed on its side and broken into its component stages to show off the engines on each. Three old-timers were seated together on a bench under the rocketâs enormous F1 engines, which jutted from the bottom of its S-IC booster stage. They are the strongest rocket engines ever put to use, and amid the museumâs bright, kid-friendly cheer, the brutal, elemental power manifest in their fat tangles of pipes, valves, and pumps was unnerving. Their fluted mouths, a dozen feet across and built to spout great tails of fire and thunder, were no less fearsome for their silence. The men on the bench were inured to the menace overhead. All wore white lab coats that identified them as museum docents and retired rocket scientists.
I stopped in front of the bench. They were in their eighties, by the looks of them, maybe older. âExcuse me,â I said. âIâm looking for Sonny Morea. Do you know where I could find him?â
âHe was just here,â one of the men replied. On the right breast of his lab coat, beneath his name tag, was an embroidered logo bearing the legend âNASA Emeritus.â
âHeâs here,â another said. âHeâs around. He might have just stepped away for a minute.â
âHe might be down there,â the first man told me, pointing to the Davidson Centerâs far end. âThatâs where he usually is, back in that corner.â
I thanked them and started that way, walking beneath the Saturn, which rests well off the floor on heavy steel cradles. Its scale borders on the absurd. The S-IC stage, essentially a flying gas can that muscled all 6.2 million pounds of the rocket off the pad and into the upper atmosphere, is 138 feet long and 33 feet in diameter; it occupies half the Davidsonâs lofty headspace lying down. The S-II stage, which took the Saturn into the airless black, came after, just as big around and 82 feet long. I passed under the S-IVB, or third stageânarrower, at 21 feet, 8 inches across, but still a monster. It put the astronauts into orbit, sent them on their way to the moon, and carried, in a shroud at its top, the lunar module. Beyond was a mock-up of the comparatively tiny Apollo spacecraft, the payload for all the rocket below. The main act, it consisted of the service module (supplying power, air, water, and electronics to the crew) and the command module, otherwise known as the capsule.
It took me several minutes to walk the length of this behemoth, with requisite pauses to admire its audacity. Stacked and ready for liftoff, it had stretched more than three times the length of the Wright brothersâ first flight. Up under the capsuleâs nose, four hundred feet from the old-timers at the tail, I saw that theyâd been joined by a fourth figure in a lab coat. I hurried back to introduce myself.
Iâd seen photographs of Saverio âSonnyâ Morea taken in the late 1960sânattily turned out, by the professional engineering standards of the day, in crisp oxford shirts, bow ties, and skinny-lapeled sport coats, his dark hair trimmed short on the sides in the prevailing NASA style. The photos hinted at a certain consistency of temperament: Whenever a flash went off, Sonny Morea seemed to wear an expression of expectant delight. They suggested that here was a guy who enjoyed conversation, liked people, didnât sweat the little stuff.
Fifty years had passed sinceâhe was now eighty-sevenâbut it was instantly clear that Moreaâs long exposure to Earthâs gravity had done little to mask his cheer. We shook hands. âIâm sorry I wasnât here when you got here,â he said, smiling. âHave you been down there to see it?â He had a croonerâs tenor still tinged with Richmond Hill, Queens, sixty-odd years after he left the old neighborhoodâand with almost all of that time spent in Alabama, no less. âNo,â I told him. âI didnât get that far.â
âWell, then, letâs go have a look.â
Back up the length of the Saturn we ventured, Morea tilted forward about ten degrees and hurrying on very short steps to keep up with the lean. Past the rocketâs tip, the Davidsonâs gallery was twilit, with spots illuminating a few Holy Grail items of Apollo history: the scorched command module, Casper, from Apollo 16, interior lit to show off the three âcouchesâ its crew occupied; an A7L space suit, worn in Earth orbit and now encased in glass; and what weâd come to see.
The lunar roverâin NASA parlance, the lunar roving vehicle, or LRVâwas just beyond reach behind a low barrier. The âmoon buggy,â as the press insisted on calling it when it carried the astronauts around in the early seventies. A âspacecraft on wheels,â as Morea and his fellow engineers preferred to think of it. âThere it is,â he said now. âWhat do you think?â
What I thought was that it looked just as Iâd imagined it. All business. Built with the precision and purpose of all Apollo machinery. A wondrous meld of engineering and imagination, deceptively simple, conceived at a time when the available tools to work out its hidden complexities were slide rules, blackboards, and hand-drawn blueprints. âWow,â I answered. âAmazing.â And I meant it, because I understood that I was beholding something truly revolutionary. And elegant. And rare.
Even as I spoke, though, it occurred to me that the uninformed observer might be less impressed. Suspicious, even: It wasnât entirely clear that this rover was the real thing, because it was displayed with the Davidson Centerâs one unalloyed disappointment, a mock-up of the lunar module that looked salvaged from a high school stage production. That aside, there was the vehicle itself, insofar as there was very little to itâit was tiny, and its seats looked like lawn chairs, and it lacked a body or a roof or a steering wheel or much of anything, besides wheels, that typically define a car. Next to the Saturn V reclining big as creation a few feet away, it looked like a weekend garage project abandoned well before its finish.
But it takes imagination to celebrate whatâs missing in an object, along with whatâs there, and the LRV was a feat of âless is moreâ engineering that was radical even by NASAâs standards. Its builders distilled everything essential to an earthbound off-roader to its indivisible minimum, its smallest and lightest and most fundamental iteration, then whittled even further. On Earth, it weighed 460-odd poundsânot much more than a single astronaut in his space suitâbut on the lunar surface weighed a sixth as much, thanks to the moonâs weaker gravity. So it was that the four electric motors turning its wheels together churned out just one horsepower. You can buy a gutsier shop vac, but at less than eighty lunar pounds, thatâs all the punch it needed.
On the job, it proved sturdy enough to shrug off a lot of abuse. Yet the museumâs example rested on a display stand that propped up its aluminum frame; without it, the chassis might have sagged under the pull of Earthâs gravity by now. If I were to step onto the floorboard, Iâd snap it. I focused on its tires, which Iâd long admired in pictures. They were the shape and size of all-season radials, only made of stainless steel mesh. They supported the rover on the moon, but here, minus the stand, would squash flat. Each, rim included, weighed just twelve pounds. Earth pounds.
âIt doesnât look like much,â Morea allowed. âIt weighs next to nothing. But, you know, I worked on the Saturn for ten years before we started this. I worked on the F1 enginesâI managed that program for seven yearsâand then I was sent in to help fix the J2 engines.â He turned to the rocket and nodded toward the fonts of hellfire on the second and third stages. âCouldnât go anywhere without those. But itâs kind of crazy: of all the things I worked on, this is what Iâll probably be remembered for.â
I eyed the rover. âPeople canât get their heads around rocket engines,â I suggested. âI look at one, and I canât figure it out. This, I understand.â
âYeah,â Morea said, nodding. âWho hasnât driven a car?â
The machine seemed familiar enough fifty years ago that some of the press treated it as the inevitable, almost comic product of the most automotive people on Earth. Of course weâd send a car into space.
In truth, there was no âof courseâ about it. Basic layout aside, the rover had little in common with any other vehicle built in the nearly eighty years of the horseless carriage that preceded it, and bore no resemblance to any other 1969 General Motors product, which is essentially what it was. It was called on to cross country that no Earth car would encounter, in conditions that would cripple any terrestrial vehicle instantly: temperatures of minus 250 degrees Fahrenheit in the shade and plus 250 in the sunshine; a surface of clingy, abrasive dust that could foul any moving part; fierce solar radiation; and a constant shower of micrometeoroids smaller than grains of sand but moving faster than bullets. All while wrapped in an airless vacuum.
Under the circumstances, mere survival would have set the rover apart. But it also carried twice its weight, despite its gossamer construction. And endured lengthy odysseys on which it climbed slopes that would test any jeep, clawed over foot-high rocks, thumped into and out of craters. And kept track of where it was on the lunar surface, so that if anything went wrong, it could point the fastest way back to the lunar lander. Not that anything could go wrong: operating nearly a quarter million miles from the nearest service station required the rover to be reliable, above all else, with redundancies for its major components. If one of its motors failed, it could run on the other three. If two motors failed, it could run on the remaining two. If three failed, well, all bets were off, but it might limp for a while on one. That it met the demands of lunar travel is remarkable even today, when our cars have become rolling computers, and our poor habits are sniffed out by sensors and alarms and automatic braking. But the rover was designed in 1969, when both automotive engineering and space technology relied on a far more primitive set of tools.
It evolved from ideas that are older still. Within NASA, the rover project is remembered not only for its success but for how quickly it gelled. The first machine was delivered to the Kennedy Space Center just seventeen months after the space agency awarded the contract to produce it, a fraction of the time Apollo hardware usually took. It had a long family history, however: The rover was shaped by nearly a decade of start-and-stop NASA studies into how best to explore the moonâinquiries that signaled just how big the agency was thinking at the time and also assumed that Apollo would be the first chapter in a long lunar campaign. The vehicles conceived in those inquiries were left on paper, unbuilt, but traces survived in the little machine that Morea and I now admired. Alloyed into its metal, and especially those exotic wheels, were years of sweat, experimentation, and creativity.
When NASA finally went ahead with the project, hundreds of people raced the clock to get it aboard the Saturn V. Little went according to plan. The project blew through its budget and threatened to overshoot its deadline by months. Careers were made and broken in the struggle to finish it. The man standing beside me in the Davidson Center came close to calling the whole thing off, and NASAâs higher-ups stood at the same precipice on numerous occasions.
Yet it got to the moon. In the face of myriad challenges it made it there and changed everything about Apollo.