Pattern Cutting for Clothing Using CAD

How to Use Lectra Modaris Pattern Cutting Software

M Stott

• Publisher: Woodhead Publishing
• Year: 2012
• ISBN:
  9780857097095
• Topic: Computer Science
• Subtopic: Computer Graphics
• Index: Computer Science

The invention of computer aided design (CAD) has revolutionised pattern cutting for clothing. Lectra's Modaris pattern cutting software is a key tool in pattern production. Using a practical approach and clear examples throughout, Pattern cutting for clothing using CAD is an essential guide for all users of Lectra Modaris.Beginning with an overview of the role of patterns in clothing manufacture, the key documents and tools of the trade are discussed before the keyboard, mouse and screen layout in Lectra Modaris are introduced. Title blocks and all aspects of digitising a clothing pattern are examined in clear, concise steps, followed by a thorough guide to the Lectra Modaris toolbox and the upper and lower toolbar menus. Creating size ranges and the importance of measurements and size charts are discussed, before the book concludes with an indispensable 'How do I?' guide to the Lectra Modaris functions and menus, indexed by required action.Drawing on a wealth of practical experience, Pattern cutting for clothing using CAD is an indispensable, practical and user-friendly guide to making the most of Lectra's Modaris software for both students and professionals in textiles and fashion.

• Provides an overview of the role of patterns in clothing manufacture, the key documents and tools of the trade
• Introduces the keyboard, mouse and screen layout in Lectra Modaris
• Concisely outlines title blocks and all aspects of digitising a clothing pattern, before providing a guide to the Lectra Modaris toolbox and upper and lower toolbar menus

Chapter 1

The role of patterns in clothing manufacture: generating and communicating information

Abstract:

A pattern is more than just a template for cutting cloth. It is the document from which a production run of garments is made and used in many different ways by Production Pattern Cutters and Graders, Lay Planners and Factory Manufacturing Personnel. This chapter tells the story of the pattern from design sketch to production and explains the lines of communication, how to generate information, store instructions and pass them on.

Key words

Pattern Cutter

specifications

measurement charts

Lectra Modaris

1.1 Introduction: the Pattern Cutter’s place in apparel production

The thrill of pattern making is the progression of turning a sketch or idea into a set of templates and instructions from which any number of the same garment can be made and, of course, then bought and worn. Embedded into this pattern is an international language of nips and seam allowances, grain lines and balance marks, alluding to the fact that the pattern isn’t the end in itself, but just the beginning.

The implications and journey of your pattern, if you think about its life after leaving your hands, is complex and varied: it will be used to mark shapes onto cloth for cutting; it will be graded to make other sizes; it will be referred to in order to ensure that the right trims are used and the correct assembly followed; and it will be cursed if it is in any way lacking in detail, clarity or accuracy. Your pattern can set the standard for the entire production: a daunting thought.

A good Pattern Cutter, like an Architect, while not actually having to do all the different trades him or herself, needs to know how garment making is done, in what order and with what machinery and resources, and have an appreciation of the totality of the job. It’s not just the pattern cutting techniques that you need to know, but the raw materials and manufacturing method as well. Pattern cutting is engineering, designing for function and style and resolving problems on the way. It isn’t an isolated occupation: you are working as a part of a team in order to produce beautiful, wearable clothing. Each of the separate occupations involved has its own set of skills, but they all rely on the accuracy of the pattern and its associated information produced by the Pattern Cutter to carry out their jobs well.

1.2 The pattern cutting team

1.2.1 The Pattern Cutter

There are many types of Pattern Cutter. In job advertisements you may read Pattern Cutter, or Designer/Pattern Cutter, Creative Pattern Cutter or Production Pattern Cutter and even Pattern Cutter/Grader. These roles do have points of difference referring mainly to the development stage of the pattern.

A Designer/Pattern Cutter or Creative Pattern Cutter will be working at the innovation stage at the beginning of the design and be more concerned with styling and the shape of a pattern, whereas the Production Pattern Cutter will make sure that the mechanics of the pattern work efficiently and that it is absolutely accurate for use in a production run at a factory. The production pattern is then sent to the Grader.

In reality these distinctions become blurred and good practices of accuracy and integrity should be observed at all stages. Recently I have discovered a new role, that of the Pattern Alteration Maker who only makes the pattern amendments. My own view is that the original Pattern Cutter should make the alterations because they understand the process in making the pattern and can therefore make the appropriate amendments. I was once told by my Pattern Room Manager, during the early years of my career, that any work that I left undone had to be picked up by another. In other words, when a pattern left my hands it should be the very best that I could make it. Being accurate from the outset has never been a bad habit and I offer the same advice to you. Whatever you do, do it well.

1.2.2 The Cutter and Lay Planner

Your immediate next user of the pattern will be the Cutter, the one who lays the pattern onto cloth and cuts it out. This may be a Sample Cutter or, in a factory, just one of the many jobs of the Production Cutter. It may also be an automated cutting machine which will use your pattern directly without the use of a card or paper template first. Whichever type it may be, the Cutter will be using the information you have provided on and with your pattern to make sure the pieces are laid on the correct grain of the fabric, that the correct number of each pattern piece is cut and if they need any further treatment such as applying an interlining.

A Cutter will always lay a pattern onto cloth in such a way as to make the most efficient use of the material. This is called lay planning. A Cutter may also be a Lay Planner, but not necessarily. Today lay planning is most usually done on computers using a special program to ensure the maximum efficiency of cloth usage. In Lectra this is called Diamino. It is essential that patterns made using CAD (computer aided design) have the associated text information correctly added at the pattern stage, as computers use the information exactly as given and will not spot human errors. In Modaris this is called the Variant, which we will look at in greater detail later. It is important to understand that all of the information related to a pattern, decided by and typed in by the Pattern Cutter, must be accurate, as this information will directly affect the work of the Lay Planner.

1.2.3 The Pattern Grader

Once a master pattern and base size chart have been established for the sample size, it is then a matter of applying grading increments to obtain the subsequent sizes. How one grades a style may be repetitive, with the same applications over and over again, but the actual garment style must be taken into consideration and the rules applied with the same logic as when making the initial pattern.

A Grader takes the single size pattern, lets say a size 12, and then makes it smaller or larger to create subsequent sizes, e.g. sizes 8 and 10 and sizes 14 and 16 respectively. How much to add and in what places is a skill on its own as not all styles require exactly the same method of grading. Any inaccuracies in the initial pattern will be amplified during grading, once again highlighting the responsibility of the Pattern Cutter to produce precise patterns. A Pattern Cutter may be a Pattern Grader, and vice versa, but not necessarily as they require quite different training and skills.

1.2.4 The Sample Machinist

Here is the real reason for the pattern – a garment is made. If the cloth has been cut well and with all of the notches included, the machinist should be able to put it together without further reference other than a sketch. For a prototype garment, called a first sample, the Sample Machinist will identify any improvements which could be made and advise the Pattern Cutter accordingly. It could be that the fabric has reacted differently to expected when cut out and requires a pattern adjustment, or specialist machinery may be needed, which in turn requires a specific seam allowance for the pattern construction to be made in a certain way. A good Sample Machinist is a Pattern Cutter’s best friend, testing the pattern and making ready for production. Note though, that the styling and fit of a garment is a separate stage, and not the responsibility of the Machinist.

1.2.5 The Garment Technologist

The quality of a garment is in the hands of the Garment Technologist. Once a sample garment is made and approved for manufacture, there is a series of checks before production can begin. It is the Garment Technologist’s job to ensure that these have been done. The full role of the Technologist covers more than the range of this book. Briefly it includes everything to do with the technical production of a garment. Examples include making sure that the garment fits well and adheres to the company size chart, that it is graded correctly, that the fabric meets the company performance standards and that aftercare instructions are suitable. Garment Technologists will also approve the trims, making up methods and finishes and ensure that the correct labels are attached in the correct places. This is not an exhaustive list but shows the scope of the responsibilities of the Garment Technologist.

For the Pattern Cutter the most important relationship with the Garment Technologist is that of the fit of the garment. It is the Technologist who will fit the garment in conjunction with the Designer or Buyer and then ask the Pattern Cutter to amend the pattern according to their requirements. To do this she/he will typically issue a measurement chart called a size specification and a set of written comments to explain the changes required. Different companies arrange these communications in different ways but they all essentially lead to an agreed specification which can be checked against production garments to ensure compliance with the original order.

1.2.6 Quality Assurance and Quality Control personnel

Quality Assurance (QA) and Quality Control (QC) personnel have subtly different roles to that of the Garment Technologist and, as with the previous roles, have many common tasks. QC usually takes place at certain designated points in a garment’s production, to check that all is well and that it meets the specification requirements. QA is the overall term for ensuring that all critical aspects of production are properly monitored.

1.3 Specifications, measurement charts and other documents

1.3.1 The specification

The key document accompanying the pattern is the specification (spec), the chart of measurements against which the finished garment will be checked. In theory, a spec comes after the creation of a pattern and its sample by measuring the finished garment. However, the modern process, especially when the Designer and Pattern Cutter are many miles apart, is to issue a specification first with the design sketch stating the finished measurements required.

If you find yourself making a pattern from a sketch with a detailed measurement specification, use it as a support to the sketch, and if amendments are needed, let the Garment Technologist know. The measurements that you have been given are a guide, intended to help not hinder, but may not be workable. Be bold and, if necessary, make recommendations back.

The specification also contains a lot of additional information that may have an impact on your pattern requirements – labels, hangers, interlinings, shoulder pads etc. The size and positioning of a label can determine the size and shape of a facing. For example a large coat label applied to a front facing on the inside of the front edge will need a facing wide enough to accommodate that label. A small label in the back neck position will require a suitably sized and shaped facing, or none at all.

1.3.2 Measurement charts

The on-going debate on sizing and proportions continues. Body shape, like ...

Table of contents

• Cover image
• Title page
• Table of Contents
• Copyright
• Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles
• Disclaimer
• Preface
• Chapter 1: The role of patterns in clothing manufacture: generating and communicating information
• Chapter 2: Introduction to the keyboard mouse and screen layout in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software
• Chapter 3: Title blocks in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software
• Chapter 4: Digitising a clothing pattern on Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software
• Chapter 5: Plotting using JustPrint
• Chapter 6: A guide to the toolbox in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software: F1–F3
• Chapter 7: A guide to the toolbox in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software: F4–F8
• Chapter 8: The upper tool bar in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software
• Chapter 9: The lower tool bar menus and keyboard commands in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software
• Chapter 10: Converting files using the Lectra interoperability function
• Chapter 11: Creating size ranges in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software
• Chapter 12: The importance of measurements size charts for pattern cutting
• Chapter 13: How do I? The functions and menus that you need to know in Lectra Modaris indexed by the required action
• Appendix 1: Pattern numbering
• Appendix 2: Recommended abbreviations for naming pattern pieces in Lectra Modaris
• Appendix 3: Keyboard commands by alphabet
• Appendix 4: Lectra Modaris terminology glossary
• Index