My Cold War
My first encounter with the Cold War came on a wet evening in the late autumn of 1956. I went with my father to the gloomy parish hall of Saint Francisâ Church near Villa Cross in Birmingham to find it filled with rows of camp-beds. Several bus-loads of Hungarians had just arrived. They had been travelling for three or four days and a couple had bloody bandages. The remnants of the lives they had abandoned â clothing, boots, rucksacks, quilted jackets, fur hats, toys â lay where they fell. I had no idea what had happened or where Hungary was, but I remember the silence, the stink of exhaustion, shock and utter despair.
At that time the more run-down parts of Handsworth were where newly arrived immigrants and refugees settled on their way to something better. At Catholic junior school I was mainly with other Irish kids, but there were also Italians, Poles, Palestinians, Iranis, Jordanians, Greeks, Cypriots, Hungarians and Ukrainians. At my secondary school in Erdington the demographic changed a little with Caribbean, Pakistani and Indian kids, but there were several Polish kids â PopliĹski, SzpotaĹski (Sputnik), Twardowicz, SmĂłjkis (Smudger), KamiĹski, Giery and Bach. They taught me a few words of Polish and introduced me to lemon tea, ogĂłrki, kompot, barsczcz and wĂłdka (pickled gherkins, compote, beetroot soup and vodka). Their parents had arrived in Britain after epic journeys via Romania and France or via the USSR, Iran, Palestine and Italy. I later came to realise that, judging by their accents, they were mostly from the kresy â the eastern borderlands annexed by the USSR as part of the MolotovâRibbentrop Pact and retained after 1945. At the end of the war their homes were in the Soviet Union, Poland was a communist satellite and they were a stranded embarrassment to their erstwhile allies.
As wartime austerity faded and the culture of deference receded, I went to study English Literature at University College Swansea, where the â60s hung on into the late â70s. I became interested in recent translations in the Penguin Modern Poets series, where I âdiscoveredâ Herbert, RĂłzewicz and MiĹosz, then moved on to Borowski and MroĹźek. Their irony and the idea of the audience these writers assumed appealed to me: the experience and tradition out of which this writing had grown were very different from the kind of writing I was studying at university. I wanted more.
I first visited Poland in 1973. I spent a month in the tiny village of Szczedrzyk, near Opole, teaching on an English Language summer-school run for UNESCO by the Central Bureau for Educational Visits and Exchanges.1 This old German village â the local reservoir had been called Hitlersee and the nearby town had once been Oppeln â had been ceded to Poland in the post-war border shift: on the streets the kids went without shoes and a horse-drawn cart was the main form of transport. The simmering resentments Germans and Poles still had to negotiate â a great many Germans who wanted to leave after 1945 had been designated as âautochthonous Polesâ and forced to live on among the incoming Poles â meant that on more than one occasion we stepped over blood and teeth in the doorway to the local bar.
A year later I returned to Poland to take up a âlocal contractâ at WrocĹaw Technical University. At night I sat in my room high above WrocĹaw (I thought my address at 19/84 Plac Grunwaldzki significant) and, in the absence of TV, I listened to the lions roar in the nearby zoo and copied Herbertâs poems into my notebook. This was a labour of love, a way of engaging, working out the internal structure of the poems, pushing past the language to read the experience that drove it.
In 1975 I moved to the University of GdaĹsk, which had opened the previous year, and where I was their first foreign appointment. Every six months I had to register with the milicja. In WrocĹaw they quizzed me about my inherited wealth, university study, my fatherâs occupation and which party I belonged to. That my mother was a classroom assistant and my father was a van driver for the Post Office puzzled them enormously. They lost interest completely when they I realised I was not a rich capitalist, did not own a car, had no land or huge inheritance, did not represent some decayed element of the aristocracy and had not attended Oxford or Cambridge. In GdaĹsk, however, the milicja asked the same questions and then tried to recruit me as an informer.
âThere are some very pretty students there, yes?â
âYes, I suppose so.â
âAnd the staff have lots of affairs.â
âI wouldnât know.â
âSo, just tell us â who is fucking who, who is ambitious, who wants promotion, who brings vodka to work in their briefcase, who has parties, who is planning to go to the West. You know, just the latest gossip.â
âI am sorry,â I said. âBut I donât speak much Polish and I have very little social contact with staff or students.â
âWhat are you, some kind of cholerny pustelnik?â
I had to look this up: âbloody hermitâ, with just a hint of âwankerâ.
âBut you will report to us if you hear something interestingâŚâ
âIf I hear of plans for robbery, rape or murder I will report it, just like any good citizen.â
That did not please them.
As a foreigner I was watched, but not very closely. Unlike BBC correspondent Tim Sebastian and other Western journalists I had no âminderâ, and went wherever I pleased. I suspect several people â colleagues and students â were reporting on me to the police, but I never knew who for sure. And besides, there was little to tell. Normally the milicja leaned on the weaker students, offering to up their grades. But the weaker students could hardly report accurately on conversations in English. One student in particular failed repeatedly but was allowed back to continue his course. I checked the protokoĹy (student grade record) and yes, every fail-mark I had given him had been amended to a pass. The rumour was that his father was a close friend of local Party chief Tadeusz Fiszbach. In Polish they call it wysokie protekcja (high protection).2 Inevitably the question arose: is my apartment bugged? The answer was: of course, but this is communist Poland so the bug is probably broken.
Unlike WrocĹaw, GdaĹsk was a very tense and prickly place. There was an undercurrent of anti-Party feeling and one of the first buildings pointed out to me was Party Headquarters, burned out in the protests of 1970, but then rebuilt a provocative one storey higher. As a port city, the black market was very active and well developed, but that made those who ran it and those who depended on it very nervous. Being a foreigner in GdaĹsk could be tricky. Several times I saw German tourists beaten up. Most weekends there were fights between the Finns and Swedes who were building the new North Port. It was possible to see both parties glowering at each other across the room, bandaged, splinted and stitched, at Sunday morning breakfast in the Grand Hotel, Sopot.
In my spare time I was researching the background to GĂźnter Grassâ novels. At that time very few people in Poland had heard of him and, wandering around the city, I continually had to make it clear â sometimes by showing my passport â that I was not a revanchist German, come to reclaim my family home. My first name did not help.
At the university I delivered courses on literature from the eighteenth century to the early twentieth century and I was instructed to focus closely on issues of literary structure and dialogue. But there were problems in the English department. Some of the younger lecturers were unhappy with our department manager. I thought of him simply as a manager, but in their eyes he was a figure of suspicion: what they suspected him of I could not make out. He was a pietistic Catholic, but my colleagues insisted that to reach this level of responsibility he must have come to an âaccommodationâ with the Party. For some of these lecturers I suspect it was just envy â after his doctorate our manager had published almost nothing and chosen the âmanagerial routeâ. However, the underlying pulse was that several lecturers nurtured an ambition to establish an English department in SuwaĹki, around which they hoped a new university would form.3 They spent their time in tireless intrigue against our manager, questioning his decisions, undermining him, recruiting staff to teach at their fantasy university and trying to find someone in the Party hierarchy with the power to set it in motion.
In GdaĹsk, as people became increasingly frustrated at shortages in housing, medicine and food, at dangerous working conditions in the factories and shipyards, and at proposed changes to the Polish Constitution, fliers and posters for Wolne ZwiÄ
zki Zawodowe WybrzeĹźa (Free Trades Unions of the Coast) began to appear on the buses, trams, and the local blue and yellow coastal trains. As soon as posters appeared at the railway station the milicja tore them down. Tension was building to the protests of 1976 and the birth of SolidarnoĹÄ in 1980. The milicja had caught wind of something at the university, but they could not work out what. For them â and very few milicja were graduates â university was a baffling place. They probably connected unrest in the English department with the posters and fliers, and with the dissident Uniwersytet LatajÄ
cy (Flying University). In trying to recruit me as an informer they were looking for some kind of âleverageâ, a way into the rapidly growing underground civic movement.
Eventually the atmosphere in the English department became so poisonous Party chief Tadeusz Fiszbach called a meeting at which attendance (even for the foreigners) was compulsory. This tall, bald man with enormous glasses and a disconcerting yellow and orange check jacket made it very clear that this discontent had come to the Partyâs notice and that the Party did not approve of constant jostling: there would be no further talk of a university in SuwaĹki unless the Party said so. He attempted to re-focus the staff with a pep-talk about responsibility, duty, the function of a university in Peopleâs Poland, and of course the leading role of the Party.4
I had been ill with a kidney infection over the winter and by June 1976, with my teaching finished, I wanted to return to the UK. However, the GdaĹsk milicja refused me permission to leave until September. This was my punishment for not cooperating. Instead of arguing with them I asked for a permit to visit friends in West Berlin for a weekend. They said this would be fine, so I bought my train ticket, packed my few possessions and, clutching my guitar, I left. At the Polish border one of the passengers denounced me to the guards, saying I was carrying drugs â probably to distract from the fact they were carrying drugs. The guards took me away, strip-searched me and did a finger-tip search of my luggage. They were disappointed to find sugar, vodka and sausage in my bag. The border guard said:
âWhat is this for?â
âIt is a thank-you to my friends in Berlin for offering me a bed.â
âDonât you have these things in the West?â
âCertainly, but they are expensive.â
âYour friends in the West are poor?â
âMost people I know are poor. Thatâs capitalism.â
The guard looke...