1 COUNTESS
CHAPTER ONE A TOWN OF PALACES
In the first quarter of the eighteenth century, the London metropolis sprawls from the tar-caked wharves of Wapping in the east to the walls of Hyde Park in the west: the greatest, richest, most rapidly expanding trading city in the world.
St Paulâs dominates the skyline in the City, as brick and stone rise from the ashes of the Great Fire. Mayfair is a neoclassical building site â the finest architectural period in Englandâs history is under way. Terraces of houses, church spires with glinting weather vanes are interspersed with swathes of parkland and open fields along the cityâs artery, the salmon-rich silent highway, the Thames, which teems with sailing boats, pleasure boats, merchant ships, barges, small craft and yachts.
A visitor in the summer of 1717 might witness the royal party, the new Hanoverian King George I and his attendants, on their stately barge, followed by an orchestra of fifty on another, playing Handelâs Water Music. They board at Whitechapel, pass marshes and heathland and disembark at Chelsea, two miles upstream. The banks shine with beauty on either side of the river; it compares only to the river âTyber⌠nothing in the world can imitate itâ.1
Daniel Defoe calls London a âGreat and Monstrous Thingâ,2 but Chelsea is a village outside the city, an airy âtown of palacesâ3 where the river breeze shakes the boughs of the fertile gardens, none so spacious as those of the Royal Hospital.4 Prosperous townspeople head for Chelsea on Sundays for fresh, clean air. Here there are market gardens supplying fruit and vegetables for the town, alongside the graceful houses of noble families.5 At the hospital, the grounds are designed in French formal style, front and back; two L-shaped canals lined with swan houses flow from the river up the sweeping gardens. At the bank of the Thames, there is a terrace, pavilions and steps down to the water. On the south side lies open country â trees, fields, homesteads and windmills, like a scene painted by a Dutch old master. The river can only be crossed by ferry here and sheep are driven through the streets from local farms.
The austere red-brick splendour of Wrenâs home for old soldiers contains a gracious three-storey, high-ceilinged apartment in a river-facing wing. In 1726, this forms the light-filled London home of the lieutenant-governor, Colonel Thomas Chudleigh, his wife Harriet, and the two children who have survived infancy: dutiful, seven-year-old Thomas and the angelic-looking, adored five-year-old Elizabeth. The hospital estate is their playground: they run along stone-flagged corridors and through colonnades of Doric columns under the inscription âIN SUBSIDIUM ET LEVAMEN, EMERITORUM SENIO, BELLOQUE FRACTORUMâ towards the chapel and the dining hall, past the gilded statue of founder Charles II cast as a Roman emperor, near-blinding when the sun hits it, and the royal portraits, across lawns lined with limes and chestnut trees, orchards and their family kitchen garden, all the way down to the river.
The Chudleigh children grow up accustomed to a degree of stately grandeur and plenty. They have several playmates, the children of hospital staff â the secretary, the clerk of works, the physician6 â and they live alongside the elderly majority, 400 old or wounded soldiers. Chelsea, like its inspiration, Louis XIVâs HĂ´tel des Invalides, is an architectural celebration of both military courage and a kingâs benevolence. It is said that in England, the hospitals resemble palaces, and the palaces resemble prisons.7 Although the men sleep in small wooden berths and the stairs have shallow risers to aid their superannuated frames, prayers are said in the chapel beneath a glorious Resurrection by Sebastiano Ricci, and the Great Hall is fit for a medieval king. Governor Charles Churchill and Lt-Governor Chudleigh dine on a high table on a dais and the pensioners eat beneath them at long tables. Flags of battlefield triumph and portraits of princes line the walls, most prominently, Antonio Verrioâs mural of Charles II, crowned by the winged figure of Victory.
Within the institution live a chaplain, a porter, a baker, a brewer, an apothecary, a physician, a wardrobe keeper, linen-women, a sexton, cooks, butlers, gardeners, matrons, housekeepers, an organist, a barber, a treasurer, a canal keeper. The clerk of works oversees the building.8 Most senior of all the residents are the paymaster â in 1720, it was Robert Walpole, who became prime minister9 the following year â the governor and the lieutenant-governor.
As the children are aware as they weave their way through the faltering steps of the pensioners, with pats and smiles, the hospital is also a garrison, the men subject to military discipline: chapel twice a day, a roll call and gate-closing time at 10 P.M. Some men â they are all men10 â stand sentinel. A drumbeat calls them to the hall for lunch, between eleven and twelve. Food is served on pewter dishes; tablecloths reach to the floor, to double up as napkins; mugs of beer are poured from leather âjacksâ or jugs, and the undercroft below the hall contains a brewery with six weeksâ supply.11 Pensioners wear variations of crimson cloth coat and tricorne hats, depending on rank and regiment. It is such a picturesque scene that tourists such as a young Benjamin Franklin come to watch them from the gallery.
It is an idyllic place to grow up. The Chudleigh childrenâs earliest years are spent among the gracious architecture of this strange palace of military heroes, a compressed version of the strict hierarchy of Georgian society itself, with their father, a man of high status, respected by all.
Constant entertainment is provided by the river, which represents the chaotic world on the edge of the estate, a globe on the fringe of their consciousness. By the hospital stairs on the river, numbered, lightweight boats, painted red or green, wait on the water ready to take passengers; âoarsâ have two boatmen: âscullersâ one. When a person approaches, the boatmen, dressed in velvet caps and red or green doublets, run to meet them, calling out âlustily âoars, oars!â or âSculler, sculler!â â When the passenger chooses a boat, the others âunite in abusive language at the offending boatmanâ.12
The hospital is bookended by plutocratsâ villas, one the house of Lord Ranelagh, the late, corrupt hospital treasurer and army paymaster, to Swift, âthe vainest old fool I ever sawâ.13 Now lived in by his widow, its garden is known as the most resplendent in England, a âparadiseâ14 to Defoe. One day Elizabeth will frequent the same spot when it becomes the Ranelagh pleasure gardens, a lamp-lit land of nocturnal delight.
On the other side is the house of the Walpole family, with its octagonal riverside summerhouse topped with a golden pineapple, its Vanbrugh orangery, and its grotto. The Princess of Wales (the future queen, Caroline) and the court are frequent visitors, along with the ton,15 the fashionable set, such as the peripatetic writer Lady Mary Wortley Montagu,16 of whom we will hear more. Proximity to power is part of the climate.
Politics is discussed constantly in Chelsea. Writer, Whig, Richard Steele (Col. Chudleigh subscribed to his entire Spectator when it was published in 1721) and scientist philosopher Isaac Newton meet at Don Salteroâs, the whimsical coffee house on nearby Cheyne Walk, where the cabinet of curiosities includes attractions such as a nunâs whip, âthe Popeâs infallible candleâ and a bat with four ears.
The Botanick Gardens nearby with their cedar trees, the first in England, now belong to Salteroâs regular physician and naturalist Hans Sloane, whose collection of rare artefacts will one day become the British Museum.17
A child in this environment learns the importance of the monarch, military might and courage. Young Elizabeth Chudleigh, with her expressive blue eyes, fair wavy hair and the peachy plump cheeks inherited from her father, is armed with natural beauty and bravado. She has an intrepid, unconquerable spirit worthy of the military herself. She wears a simple bodice-and-skirt dress of pale calico, cap and apron, having graduated out of the padded infant âpuddingâ hat that protected her while she learned to walk. Her constant companion, her brother Thomas, now in breeches, wants to be a soldier like his father and the old war chroniclers who surround him with their stories. The Chelsea veterans of the Duke of Marlboroughâs decisive battles against the French in Flanders and Germany18 dote on the children and their playmates, Horace Walpole, the prime ministerâs son,19 diarist to be, a delicate child of eight, and Horace Mann, future diplomat in Florence, and his four younger siblings.
The hospital is a place of ritual, celebration and pride. The children munch their way through the Ceremony of the Cheese at Christmas, where donated cheeses are cut and distributed; Restoration Day in May, when all wear oak leaves to commemorate Charles II hiding in the oak tree from Cromwellâs troops; and the Festival dinner for the reigning monarch, George I, when pensioners fire their muskets. They visit the Old Church, whose lonely spire dominates the river view on the north bank, and feast on piping-hot sugary buns from the nearby Chelsea Bun House, âa Zephyr in taste! As fragrant as honeyâ,20 which has royal custom and a cheerful queue.
As an indulged youngest child, Elizabeth is used to being centre of attention and is always at ease, fearless around men, especially, we can assume, military men.
Fifty years later, at her trial, Elizabeth proudly described the Chudleighs as âancient, not ignobleâ; the women, âdistinguished for their virtueâ, the men âfor their valourâ.21 Family was always important to Elizabeth, partly because she was a Chudleigh twice over: her parents were first cousins. The name itself was of profound significance to her. By the time she died, she had convinced two monarchs â Louis XVI and Catherine the Great â to let her rename two estates in countries hundreds of miles apart Chudleigh, and attempted to coerce heirs into changing their names to that of her waning tribe.
Some of the brave Chudleighs were as reckless as they were adventurous. Although one naval officer âdistinguished himselfâ against the Spanish Armada, another, John âChidleyâ, a privateer who had sailed with his Devon kinsman Walter Raleigh in the search for El Dorado,22 sold his estate for an expedition and died in the Strait of Magellan, losing his investorsâ money along with his own. Others were sheriffs, lawyers, and men who â a notable family characteristic â made advantageous marriages. In the English Civil War, a George Chudleigh raised the family to a baronetcy when he swapped allegiance from Parliament to king.23
Less was said of other ancestors, such as Elizabethâs maternal great-grandfather Sir Richard Strode, an MP from the Devon gentry, âa man of unquiet spirit and contentious natureâ24 who was incarcerated in Fleet Prison for debt and became mentally unstable. Or of Henry VIIIâs wily minister Thomas Cromwell, eventually executed for treason, of whom she was also a direct descendant. Ambition sometimes blighted reason.
Many centuries earlier, marriage had brought into the family her fatherâs childhood home, a woodland manor house and estate near Higher Ashton, in a river valley ten miles from Exeter. Elizabethâs grandfather Sir George, 3rd Baronet, was a man of books and a landowner. Yet for all the male forbears, Elizabeth Chudleighâs most remarkable ancestor was a woman. Her grandmother Lady Mary Chudleigh was an early pioneer of independent female thought, in spite of the fact that she lived an isolated life among the remote rural backwaters of Devon, a weekâs carriage ride from the cultural centre of the metropolis. She was a proto-feminist composer of lyrics, verses, essays, tragedies, satires and operas. Sloe-eyed, dark-haired, witty and opinionated, she was a friend of Dryden,25 who asked her opinion on his works. Her best-known poem, âThe Ladiesâ Defenceâ, is a riposte in rhyming couplets to a sermon on marriage, âThe Bride-Womanâs Counsellorâ, in which women, who have âweaker capacities to learn than menâ were advised that âthe love of a husband very much does depend on the obedience of a wifeâ. Mary wrote in retort: âWife and servant are the same/ But only differ in the name.â
Mary was one of only two published female poets in the first decade of the eighteenth century.26 Her family were Puritan thinkers and she corresponded with a circle â the poet Elizabeth Thomas, âthe first English feministâ27 Mary Astell, the Rev John Norris â who believed in womenâs intellectual autonomy.
She achieved her writerly success in spite of ill health and much bereavement: of her six children, only two, George and Elizabethâs father, Thomas, survived into adulthood. A devout Anglican and royalist, she dedicated one book to the Electress Sophia of Hanover, the cerebral woman who would have succeeded Queen Anne if she had lived three months longer, and another poem to Anne herself, after the death of her son, the Duke of Gloucester, at the age of eleven. Maryâs âOde to the young Duke of Gloucesterâ was written from one heartbroken mother to another:
His Face was Charming, and his Make Divine
As if in him assemblâd did combine
The numârous Graces of his Royal Line.
Lady Mary was much ad...