MALRICHāS DIARY
NOVEMBER 1996
It was hard for me to read Rachelās diary. His French isnāt like mine. The dictionary wasnāt much help, every time I looked something up it just referred me to something else. French is a real minefield, every word is a whole history linked to every other. How is anyone supposed to remember it all? I remembered something Monsieur Vincent used to say to me: āEducation is like tightening a wheel nut, too much is too much and not enough is not enough.ā But I learned a lot, and the more I learned, the more I wanted to know.
The whole thing started with the eight oāclock news on Monday, 25 April 1994. One tragedy leading to another leading to another, the third the worst tragedy of all time. Rachel wrote:
Iāve never felt any particular attachment to Algeria, but every night, at eight oāclock on the dot, Iād sit down in front of the television waiting for news from the bled. Thereās a war on there. A faceless, pitiless, endless war. So much has been said about it, so many terrible things, that I came to believe that some day or other, no matter where we were, no matter what we did, this horror was bound to touch us. I feared as much for this distant country, for my parents living there, as I did for us, here, safe from it all.
In his letters, papa only ever talked about the village, his humdrum routine, as if the village were a bubble beyond time itself. Gradually, in my mind, the whole country became reduced to that village. That was how I saw it: an ancient village from some dimly remembered folk tale; the villagers have no names, no faces, they never speak, never go anywhere; I saw them standing, crouching, lying on mats or sitting on stools in front of closed doors, cracked whitewashed walls; they move slowly, with no particular goal; the streets are narrow, the roofs low, the minarets oblique, the fountains dry; the sand extends in vertiginous waves from one end of the horizon to the other; once a year clouds pass in the blue sky like hooded pilgrims mumbling to themselves, they never stop here but march on to sacrifice themselves to the sun or hurl themselves into the sea; sometimes they expiate their sins over the heads of the villagers, and then itās like the biblical flood; here and there I hear dogs barking at nothing, the caravans are long gone but as everywhere in these forsaken countries, skeletal buses shudder along the rutted roads like demons belching smoke; I see naked children runningālike shadows swathed in dustātoo fast to know what game they are playing; pursued by some djinn; laughter and tears and screams following behind, fading to a vague hum in this air suffused with light and ash, merging with the echoes. And the more I told myself that all this was just some movie playing in my head, a ragbag of nostalgia, ignorance and clichĆ©s seen on the news, the more the scene seemed real. Papa and maman, on the other hand, I could still picture quite clearly, hear their voices, still smell them, and yet I knew that this too was false, that these were inventions of my mind, sacred relics from my childhood memory making them younger with each passing year. I reminded myself that life is hard in the old country, all the more so in a godforsaken village, and then this tranquil veil would tear and I would see an old man, half-paralysed, trying to stay standing to surprise me, and a hunchbacked old woman supporting herself against the flaking wall as she struggled to her feet to greet me, and I would think, this is papa, this is maman, this is what time and hard living have done to them.
Everything I know about Algeria, I know from the media, from books, from talking to friends. Back when I lived with uncle Ali on the estate, my impressions were too real to be true. On the estate, people played at being Algerian beyond what truth could bear. Nothing forced them to, but they conformed to tradition with consummate skill. Emigrants we are and emigrants we will be for all time. The country they spoke of with such emotion, such passion, doesnāt exist, the tradition that is the North Star of their memory still less so. Itās an idol with a stamp of tradition on its brow that reads āMade in Taiwanā; itās phony, artificial and dangerous. Algeria was other, it had its own life, everyone knew its leaders had pillaged the country and were actively preparing for the end of days. The Algerians who still live there know all too well the difference between the real country and the one we live in. They know the alpha and the omega of the horror they are forced to live through. If it were left to them, the torturers would have been the only victims of their dirty deeds.
On 25 April 1994, the bled was the lead story on the eight oāclock news: āFresh carnage in Algeria! Last night armed men stormed the little village of AĆÆn Deb and cut the throats of all of its inhabitants. According to Algerian television, this new massacre is the work of Islamic fundamentalists in the Armed Islamic Group . . . ā
I jumped to my feet and screamed, āOh God, this canāt be happening!ā What I had most feared had happened, the horror had finally found us. I slumped back, shell-shocked, I was sweating, I felt cold, I was shivering. OphĆ©lie rushed in from the kitchen shouting, āWhat is it? Whatās the matter? Talk to me for Christās sake!ā I pushed her away. I needed to be on my own, to take it in, to compose myself. But the truth was there before my eyes, in my heart, my parents, faces, immeasurably old, immeasurably scared, pleading with me to help them, stretching out their arms towards me as ancient shadows brutally dragged them back, threw them to the ground, shoved a knee into their frail chests and slit their throats. I could see their legs judder and twitch as terrified life fled their aged bodies.
I had thought I understood horror, we see it all over the world, we hear about it every night in the news, we know what motivates it, every day political analysts explain the terrifying logic, but the only person who truly understands horror is the victim. And now I was a victim, the victim, the son of victims, and the pain was real, deep, mysterious, unspeakable. Devastating. Pain came hand in hand with an aching doubt. First thing the next morning, I phoned the Algerian Embassy in Paris to find out if my parents had been among the victims. I was transferred from one office to another, put on hold, and I held, breathless, gasping, until finally a polite voice came on the line.
āWhat was the name again, monsieur?ā
āSchiller . . . S,C,H,I, double L, E, R . . . AĆcha and Hans Schiller.ā
As I listened to the rustle of paper, I prayed to God to spare us. Then the polite voice came back and in a reassuring voice said: āPut your mind at rest, monsieur, theyāre not on the list I have here . . . Although . . . ā
āAlthough what?ā
āI do have an AĆcha Majdali and a Hassan Hans, known as Sid Mourad . . . Do those names mean anything to you?ā
āThatās my mother . . . and my father . . . ā I said, holding back my tears.
āPlease accept my condolences, monsieur.ā
āWhy arenāt they listed as AĆcha and Hans Schiller?ā
āThat, Iām afraid, I couldnāt say, monsieur, the list was sent to us by the Ministry of the Interior in Algeria.ā
Rachel had told me nothing. I never watch TV and my mates donāt even know it exists. Weād never dream about sitting in a dark room watching pictures and listening to people prattling on. If I did hear about the massacre it was only in passing, and I didnāt give a toss. AĆÆn Deb, Algeria, didnāt mean much to me. We knew there was a war on there, but it was far away, we talked about it the same way we talked about wars in Africa or the Middle East, in Kabul, in Bosnia. All my friends are from places where thereās a war or a famine, when we talk about that shit we never go into detail. Our life is here on the estate, the boredom, the neighbours screaming, the gang wars, the latest Islamist guerrilla action, the police raids, the busts, the dealers, the grief we get from our big brothers, the demonstrations, the funerals. There are family parties sometimes, theyāre cool, but theyāre really for the women. The men are always downstairs, standing outside the tower blocks counting the breezes. If you go at all, itās only to say you went. The rest of the time weāre bored shitless, we just hang around on corners waiting for it to be over.
Sometimes, weāll get a little visit from ComāDadāthatās what we call Commissioner LepĆØre. He always pretends like he didnāt know weād be there: āHey guys, I didnāt see you there . . . I was just passing . . . ā Then heāll come over, lean against the wall with us and chat like weāre old friends. Meanwhile weāre standing there wondering if heās come to phish or philosophize. Both, my brothers, both. Sometimes weāll feed him a scrap, some bit of bogus information, sometimes weāll make out like weāre thinking aloud about careers in the service of humanity and the environment. We have a laugh and then say our goodbyes, American style, high fives all round. ComāDad even buys us all tea at Da Hocine or a coffee at the station bar. Poor bastard thinks itās a good way of getting in with us. It is so lame. But at the same time we pretend to our mates that weāve got ComāDad right where we want him, that weāre always feeding him false information and getting him to pull strings for illegals on the estate. As for ComāDad, heāll turn up uninvited at whateverās going on, heās there at every party, wedding, circumcision, excision, he pops round to celebrate when people get on a course, get out of prison, get their papers, and he never misses the slaughtering of the sheep at Eid. He always leads the procession at funerals. Heās part of the new school of policing: to know your enemy you have to live with him, live like him.
In Rachelās garage I found newspaper reports of the AĆÆn Deb massacre, some from here, some from the bled, Le Monde, LibĆ©ration, El Watan, LibertĆ© . . . There was a big pile of them. Rachel had highlighted the stuff about us. It ripped my heart out just reading it. There was something sick about it too, the journalists talking about genocide like it was just another story, but their tone was like: āWe told you so, thereās something not right about this war.ā What fucking war is right? This oneās just wronger than most. And you end up imagining all the horror, the shame piled up on the grief. I had a film of it playing in my head for days, it made me sick to my stomach. This sleepy old village in the middle of nowhere, a moonless sky, dogs starting to bark, mad staring eyes appearing out of the darkness, shadows darting here and there, listening at doors, shattering them with their boots, inhuman screams, orders barked in the night, terrified villagers dragged out into the village square, kids bawling, women screaming, girls scarred with fear clinging to their mothers, trying to hide their breasts, dazed old men praying to Allah, pleading with the killers, ashen-faced men parleying with the darkness. I see a towering bearded man with cartridge belts slung across his chest ranting at the crowd in the name of Allah, then cutting a manās head off with a slash of his saber. After that, itās chaos, carnage, crying and screaming, limbs thrashing, savage laughter. Then silence again. A few groans still, soft sounds dying away one after the other, and then a sort of heavy, viscous silence crashing down onto nothingness. The dogs arenāt barking now, theyāre whimpering, heads between their paws. Night is closing in on itself, on its secret. Then the film starts up again, only more graphic this time, more screams, more silence, more darkness. The stench of death is choking me, the smell of blood as it mingles with the earth. And I throw up. Suddenly I realise Iām alone in Rachelās house. Itās pitch black outside, the silence is crushing. Then I hear a dog bark. I imagine shadows slipping through the streets. I calm myself as best I can and I sleep like the dead.
Rachel wrote:
Iāve decided, Iām going to AĆÆn Deb. It is something I have to do, something I need to do. The risks donāt matter, this is my road to Damascus.
Itās not going to be easy. When I went to the Algerian consulate in Nanterre, they treated me like I was a Soviet dissident. The official stared me in the eye until it hurt, then he flicked through my passport, flicked through it again, read and reread my visa application, then, eyes half-closed, he tilted his head back and stared at a spot on the ceiling until I thought he was in a coma. I donāt know if he heard me call him, whether he realised I was worried, but suddenly, out of the blue, he leaned over to me and, just between the two of us, he muttered between clenched teeth, āSchiller, what is that . . . English . . . Jewish?ā
āI think youāll find the passport is French, monsieur.ā
āWhy do you want to go to Algeria?ā
āMy mother and father were Algerian, monsieur, they lived in AĆÆn Deb until 24 April, when the whole village was wiped off the map by Islamic fundamentalists. I want to visit their graves, I want to mourn, surely you can understand that?ā
āOh, yes, AĆÆn Deb . . . You should have said . . . But Iām afraid itās out of the question. The consulate doesnāt issue visas to foreign nationals . . . ā
āThen who do you issue them to?ā
āIf you get killed out there, people blame us. More to the point, the French government prohibits you from travelling to Algeria. Maybe you didnāt know that, or maybe youāre just playing dumb?ā
āSo what do I do?ā
āIf your parents were Algerian, you can apply for an Algerian passport.ā
āHow do I go about that?ā
āAsk at the passport office.ā
After three months of running around, I finally got my hands on the precious documents I needed to apply. Getting Algerian papers is without doubt the most complicated mission in the world. Stealing the Eiffel Tower or kidnapping the queen of England is childās play by comparison. Phone all you like, no one ever answers, paperwork gets lost somewhere over the Mediterranean or is intercepted by Big Brother to be filed away in a missile silo in the Sahara until the world crumbles. It took me five registered letters and two months of fretful waiting just to get a copy of papaās certificate of nationality. When I finally got the papers, I felt like a hero, like Iād conquered Annapurna. I rushed back to the consulate. The passport officer proved to be every bit as intractable as his colleague at the visa desk, but, in the end, officiousness had to defer to the law. God it must be degrading and dangerous to be Algerian full time.
At the Air France office they looked at me as though I had shown up with a noose around my neck ready to hang myself in front of them. āAir France no longer flies to Algeria, monsieur,ā the woman snapped, shooing me away from her desk. I went to Air AlgĆ©rie, where the woman behind the desk could think of no reason to send me packing, but she tossed my brand new passport back at me and said, āThe computers are down. Youāll have to come back another day. Or you could try somewhere else.ā
Only when I finally got the whole trip sorted out did I tell OphƩlie and, as I expected, she threw a fit.
āAre you crazy? What the hell do you want to go to Algeria for?ā
āItās business, the company is sending me to assess the market.ā
āBut thereās a war on!ā
āExactly . . . ā
āAnd you said youād go?ā
āItās my job . . . ā
āWhy are you only telling me this now?ā
āIt wasnāt definite until now, we needed to find someone well connected in the regime.ā
āGo on then, get yourself killed, see if I care.ā
If sulking was an Olympic sport, OphƩlie would be a gold medalist. At dawn the next morning, while the dustmen were making their rounds, I crept out of the house like a burglar.
The journey itself proved to be much easier than the consulate, the airlines and OphĆ©lie predicted. Getting to Algiers was as easy as sending a letter to Switzerland. Unsurprisingly, Algiers Airport was just as I left it in 1985 when I came to bring Malrich back home. It was exactly how I remembered it, the only difference was the atmosphere. In 1985, it was low-level distrust, now it is abject terror. People here are scared of their own shadows. Thereās been a lot going on. The airport was bombed not long ago, thereās still a gaping hole in the arrivals hall, you can still see spatters of dried blood on the walls.
I found myself out on the street, in the milling crowds, under a pitiless sun. What was I supposed to do now, where was I supposed to go? From my clothes, it was obvious I was a foreigner, so I didnāt go unnoticed. I hardly had time to wonde...