Walking the Wharfe
eBook - ePub

Walking the Wharfe

An ode to a Yorkshire river

  1. English
  2. ePUB (mobile friendly)
  3. Only available on web
eBook - ePub

Walking the Wharfe

An ode to a Yorkshire river

Book details
Table of contents
Citations

About This Book

In a world of globetrotting explorers and record-breaking journeys - of which he has been part himself - Johno Ellison decided to return to his roots and walk the entire length of the River Wharfe, the Yorkshire waterway beside which he grew up. In his new book for Bradt, Walking the Wharfe, Ellison retraces the steps of Victorian author Edmund Bogg to investigate how the riverscape and its communities have evolved during the intervening 120 years. While wild camping, meeting modern-day Vikings, wartime ghosts and the fearless 'Dales Dippers', and learning how not to deal with a herd of over-inquisitive cows, Ellison encounters a microcosm of English history and culture.

Starting in the Vale of York, Ellison walks upstream to explore the region's Viking and Roman heritage, as well as more modern developments such as Tadcaster's disastrous bridge collapse in 2015. He examines a profusion of Victorian spa towns, considers the impact of the Industrial Revolution and enjoys rare wildlife such as red kites and an otter, creatures that have returned to the area following successful conservation initiatives.

Traversing the Yorkshire Dales National Park, including along the Dales Way long-distance footpath, Ellison is first bewitched by local legends of giants, trolls and witches, then seduced into wild swimming in a chilly river - albeit not the Strid, a section of the Wharfe notorious worldwide for reportedly drowning everyone who has ever tumbled into it - before seeking refuge in a candlelit pub during a storm that caused a power blackout. During his ascent, Ellison learns from a family who have farmed the Yorkshire hills for five generations before reaching the Wharfe's trickling source amid a vast boggy moorland.

This enchanting travelogue is a must-read for anyone interested in nature, 'the great outdoors', or English history and culture. Residents and fans of Yorkshire will love it, as will anyone who has hiked the Dales Way. Above all, by combining personal connections with journalistic curiosity and a nose for a story, Walking the Wharfe affirms that even lesser-known parts of the small island of Britain can hold their own against renowned tourist sites the world over.

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Table of contents

  1. Cover
  2. Title
  3. Copyright
  4. Dedication
  5. Contents
  6. Preface Bogg’s Book
  7. Chapter 1 75,000 Gallons of Ale: Cawood to Ryther
  8. Chapter 2 Fenton Jumping: Ryther to Ozendyke
  9. Chapter 3 The Great Heathen Army: Ozendyke to Kirkby Wharfe
  10. Chapter 4 A Town Divided: Kirkby Wharfe to Tadcaster
  11. Chapter 5 ‘I don’t knaw owt aboot t’ Romans’: Tadcaster to Thorp Arch
  12. Chapter 6 ‘Nothing more beautiful and truly English can be imagined’: Thorp Arch to Boston Spa
  13. Chapter 7 ‘He loves every human being, ’cept other dogs’: Boston Spa to Wetherby
  14. Chapter 8 The Best Pub in Yorkshire: Wetherby to Linton
  15. Chapter 9 ‘Avoid this place as you would a plague’: Linton to Netherby Deep
  16. Chapter 10 Beware, Rombald’s Wife: Netherby Deep to Rougemont
  17. Chapter 11 ‘T’Owd Chief’: Rougemont to Pool Bank
  18. Chapter 12 Hannibal Crossing the Chevin: Pool Bank to Farnley
  19. Chapter 13 A Friend of the Navvies: Farnley to Otley
  20. Chapter 14 ’Ow Much?!: Otley to Burley-in-Wharfedale
  21. Chapter 15 All Along the Ilkley Moor: Burley-in-Wharfedale to Ilkley
  22. Chapter 16 A Prize-winning Heifer: Ilkley to Addingham
  23. Chapter 17 England’s Killer Creek: Addingham to the Strid
  24. Chapter 18 Of Trolls and Wolves: The Strid to Appletreewick
  25. Chapter 19 Maypoles and Hogbacks: Appletreewick to Loup Scar
  26. Chapter 20 The Dancing Reverend: Loup Scar to Ghaistrill’s Strid
  27. Chapter 21 Dane’s Blood and Kilnsey Nan: Ghaistrill’s Strid to Littondale
  28. Chapter 22 Wartime Ghosts: Littondale to Kettlewell
  29. Chapter 23 The Beast of Buckden: Kettlewell to Hubberholme
  30. Chapter 24 Giant’s Grave: Hubberholme to Nethergill
  31. Chapter 25 ‘Child of the clouds’: Nethergill to Cam Fell
  32. Chapter 26 ‘Adieu to hills, glens and river’?: Wharfe’s Mouth to the source
  33. About the Author
  34. Back Cover