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About This Book
In a world of globetrotting explorers and record-breaking journeys - of which he has been part himself - Johno Ellison decided to return to his roots and walk the entire length of the River Wharfe, the Yorkshire waterway beside which he grew up. In his new book for Bradt, Walking the Wharfe, Ellison retraces the steps of Victorian author Edmund Bogg to investigate how the riverscape and its communities have evolved during the intervening 120 years. While wild camping, meeting modern-day Vikings, wartime ghosts and the fearless 'Dales Dippers', and learning how not to deal with a herd of over-inquisitive cows, Ellison encounters a microcosm of English history and culture.
Starting in the Vale of York, Ellison walks upstream to explore the region's Viking and Roman heritage, as well as more modern developments such as Tadcaster's disastrous bridge collapse in 2015. He examines a profusion of Victorian spa towns, considers the impact of the Industrial Revolution and enjoys rare wildlife such as red kites and an otter, creatures that have returned to the area following successful conservation initiatives.
Traversing the Yorkshire Dales National Park, including along the Dales Way long-distance footpath, Ellison is first bewitched by local legends of giants, trolls and witches, then seduced into wild swimming in a chilly river - albeit not the Strid, a section of the Wharfe notorious worldwide for reportedly drowning everyone who has ever tumbled into it - before seeking refuge in a candlelit pub during a storm that caused a power blackout. During his ascent, Ellison learns from a family who have farmed the Yorkshire hills for five generations before reaching the Wharfe's trickling source amid a vast boggy moorland.
This enchanting travelogue is a must-read for anyone interested in nature, 'the great outdoors', or English history and culture. Residents and fans of Yorkshire will love it, as will anyone who has hiked the Dales Way. Above all, by combining personal connections with journalistic curiosity and a nose for a story, Walking the Wharfe affirms that even lesser-known parts of the small island of Britain can hold their own against renowned tourist sites the world over.
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Table of contents
- Cover
- Title
- Copyright
- Dedication
- Contents
- Preface Boggâs Book
- Chapter 1 75,000 Gallons of Ale: Cawood to Ryther
- Chapter 2 Fenton Jumping: Ryther to Ozendyke
- Chapter 3 The Great Heathen Army: Ozendyke to Kirkby Wharfe
- Chapter 4 A Town Divided: Kirkby Wharfe to Tadcaster
- Chapter 5 âI donât knaw owt aboot tâ Romansâ: Tadcaster to Thorp Arch
- Chapter 6 âNothing more beautiful and truly English can be imaginedâ: Thorp Arch to Boston Spa
- Chapter 7 âHe loves every human being, âcept other dogsâ: Boston Spa to Wetherby
- Chapter 8 The Best Pub in Yorkshire: Wetherby to Linton
- Chapter 9 âAvoid this place as you would a plagueâ: Linton to Netherby Deep
- Chapter 10 Beware, Rombaldâs Wife: Netherby Deep to Rougemont
- Chapter 11 âTâOwd Chiefâ: Rougemont to Pool Bank
- Chapter 12 Hannibal Crossing the Chevin: Pool Bank to Farnley
- Chapter 13 A Friend of the Navvies: Farnley to Otley
- Chapter 14 âOw Much?!: Otley to Burley-in-Wharfedale
- Chapter 15 All Along the Ilkley Moor: Burley-in-Wharfedale to Ilkley
- Chapter 16 A Prize-winning Heifer: Ilkley to Addingham
- Chapter 17 Englandâs Killer Creek: Addingham to the Strid
- Chapter 18 Of Trolls and Wolves: The Strid to Appletreewick
- Chapter 19 Maypoles and Hogbacks: Appletreewick to Loup Scar
- Chapter 20 The Dancing Reverend: Loup Scar to Ghaistrillâs Strid
- Chapter 21 Daneâs Blood and Kilnsey Nan: Ghaistrillâs Strid to Littondale
- Chapter 22 Wartime Ghosts: Littondale to Kettlewell
- Chapter 23 The Beast of Buckden: Kettlewell to Hubberholme
- Chapter 24 Giantâs Grave: Hubberholme to Nethergill
- Chapter 25 âChild of the cloudsâ: Nethergill to Cam Fell
- Chapter 26 âAdieu to hills, glens and riverâ?: Wharfeâs Mouth to the source
- About the Author
- Back Cover