Part
1
One
At night in the thick jungle of Hansuli Turn someoneâs whistling. No one knows if the spiritâs a god or a demon. Everyoneâs terrified. Especially the Kahars.
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Almost at the midpoint of the Kopai river thereâs a famous river bend called Hansuli Turnâmeaning that where the river doubles back on itself in a very tight curve, its figure is just like a crescent-shaped hansuli necklace. In the rains, as it encircles the green fields, the hilly Kopaiâs red earth-filled, water-brimming bend looks like a golden hansuli on a dark girlâs neck. In the spring months, when the water flows clean and clear, then itâs like a silver hansuli. Thatâs why the bend is called Hansuli Turn. Within the river girdle, surrounded by the thick bamboo groves of Hansuli Turn, the settlement of Bansbadi occupies about one hundred acres inside the ward of Jangol. North of Bansbadi, on the other side of a few small paddy fields, lies Jangol village. Bansbadiâs a small village. Around the four sides of two ponds are thirty or so Kahar huts. Genteel society in Jangol villageâpotter Sadgops, farmer Sadgops, spice-merchant-caste homes, as well as one barber-caste and two weaver-caste houses. Jangolâs boundaries are broad; maybe one and a half thousand acres of good cropland, and lots of fallow tooâabout a hundred and fifty acres of it abandoned on the Saheb Tracts that used to belong to the English indigo planters.
Recently the respectable caste-Hindu masters, the gentlefolk of Jangol village, have had quite a fright. The Kahars of the little hundred-acre-bounded Bansbadi village, which is to say Hansuli Turnâs Kahars, saidâThe good sirs are âscairt.â Meaning scared. They would be. It seems someoneâs whistling at night. For a few days the whistle came from exactly midway between Jangol and Bansbadi, from the first westward curve of that Hansuli Turnâthick with wood-apple and saora trees, a terrifying place for ordinary mortals, the Brahmin ogreâs den. Then for a few days it rose from the thorn-infested jungle on the Kopai riverbank on Jangolâs eastern side. Then for a few days the whistle rose from a little farther offâmoved toward Hansuli Turn. Now the whistle rises from somewhere in the middle of Bansbadiâs bamboo groves.
The gents have done a lot of investigating. They blasted gunshots into the night, went yelling out of the village a couple of nights with guns, sticks, clubs; came, went, and looked all around in the light of powerful, footlong flashlights. Yet not a clue did they find. But the whistle still rang out nonstop. The police station is twenty or thirty miles away. It was reported there too. Sub-Inspector came for a few nights, but he couldnât get a single lead either. Yet itâs true that the sound keeps circling around the riverbank. Hearing all this, he made a conjecture.
Sub-Inspector is from East Bengalâhe said, somethingâs happening in the river. âLife by a river, year-long worry-giver.â Think, ruminate a while. If you mull it over then youâll get it.
âLife by a river, year-long worry-giverââthe phrase is obviously a saying from oral tradition, coming down through the generations in the land. Itâs never a false statement, but just as the land splits the sayings split too, and thus, in Jangol village of Hansuli Turnâs Bansbadi, this saying doesnât fit right. It doesnât fit this western region of Bengal. It was meant for that other region of Bengal. A member of the Ghosh family of Jangol village does business in Calcutta. He buys and sells coal, and also trades in jute. Sire Ghosh has been all around that other part of Bengal. He saysâNow over that sideâs a river country. Water and land all mixed up. Rivers running full a twelvemonth; tide comes in, water pours over riverbanks, brimming in green fields; flow tide then ebb tide, and the field water just going back down into the river; when the river course empties, banks surface. But itâs still a couple feet below the banks at most, no farther down. So whatâs the river then, this or that, one or two? Like the flow of Ganges-Jamuna, dark and eerie; their folks get the shakes setting off to cross from one side to the other. And just one stream? Where one stream comes and joins from, where the flows split and goâcanât tell. Itâs like a seven-stranded water necklaceânot a hansuli! River bends ever end over there? âEighteen Bender,â âThirty Bender,â river looks different every turn. Betel and coconut trees both sidesânot in rowsânot orchardsâlike a forest. And so many other trees, so many creepers, so many flowers, if you havenât seen you couldnât imagine. You want to see more than you ever can. Narrow little creeks going from the big river into the thick coconut and betel forests, creek on creek. Tiny boats plying those creeks. Little villages of tin-roof bamboo-wattle huts hidden under coconut and betel shade. These narrow creeks go by one village and right through the middle of anotherâfrom one village right into the next. The little boats of that land are like our oxcarts. Harvest going up from field to yard by boat, going from yard to market, to trade post and harbor; this villageâs folks going around in those same boats to their marriage kin in that village, newlywed girls going to their in-lawsâ places, girls coming home to their parentsâ places; groups of pals going to fairs and games. Farmers going to fieldsâgoing by boat too, sailing off alone with their sickles and plows in a boat. River with no end, no beginning, like the Milky Way in an autumn skyâsitting at the head of the tiny boats, like banana-stick rafts on that river, rudder gripped in left hand and armpit, scull in right hand and foot, moving along. Ghosh son bursting with talk about that land canât say it all. Sitting on those riverbanksââcourse itâs a worry.
As he speaks of worry, fear spreads in Ghosh sonâs eyesâsometimes he gets goosebumps. If you go farther down, that seven-stranded necklace of a river merges into one again. Then the river is shoreless. As if the seven-stranded gold necklace around the neck of Lakshmi of Wealth has turned to the pythonâs grip on the neck of Monosha of the Snakes; riverâs even hissing like a python. Rising, swelling, wave on wave, like the swaying of a thousand cobra hoods. With all this, sometimes a few bits of black cloud appear in the skyâflashes of lightning play right upon them, as if someoneâs firebuilt fingers beat out the music of the âTerror Drummerâ of those Black Clouds. Heaven and hell shake with the beat of his dreadlocks. Then the python flings and flings its huge shape and dances, striking with its thousand hoodsâcrazed in an orgy. Storm beats the river water. That storm washes everything awayâhomes and villages, trade posts and harborsâhumans, cows, the insect world. Suddenly no tempest, no storm, everything seems to be peace and quiet, nothing anywhereâsuddenly on the riverbank half a village stars to shudder and shake, turns and rolls straight over into the fathomless womb of the pythonlike river. Folk there have to keep one eye on the lap of the sky all year roundâlooking out for bits of black cloud; and the other eye to the earthâs breast, like sandalwood covered in green grass and cropsâlooking for signs of cracking. Yep, yearlong worries there, all right.
Sub-Inspectorâs from that place, thatâs why he said what he said. But Hansuli Turnâs an altogether different kind of place. Hansuli Turnâs a place of iron-willed earth. People battle with the earth here far more than with the river. If itâs âparchtime,â the height of cruel summer, that is, the river dries and turns to desert, sand as far as the eye can seeâon one side water no more than knee-deep somehow trickles along, like a motherless little girl with feeble body and miserable face, somehow inching forward. Then earth becomes stone. Grass shrivels away, earth heats up like forged iron; hoes and shovels wonât cut, strike with a hoe or shovel and the blade bends; hit with a pickaxlike thing and itâll cut a bit, but with each blow sparks fly. Waterways and lakes, ponds and tarns fill with cracks. Then itâs only the river that keeps folks going; itâs the river that gives water. Here, worry about the river isnât yearlong.
Here, four monthsâ river worry. From Asharh to Ashwin, the rainy months. After Asharh, the motherless little girl grows up. Youth fills her body. Then suddenly one day she becomes a witch. Just as a Kahar girl suddenly fights with mother-father-brother-sister-in-law, curses the neighbors, leaves home for the village, hair flies loose, cloth drops from the shoulder, eyes spit fire, she pelts rocks at anyone who comes for her; runs off directionless, completely out of her mind, tarnishing family honor; so does that full river one day suddenly rise in flood. A witch incarnate! No mercyâno mercy, gone completely out of her mind, she takes off screaming and calling like naked Kali, raising a rumbling roar as if with a hundred mouths, directionless. Village, settlement, field, corpse-burning ground, carrion pit, from homeâs Lakshmi shrine to garbage dumpâshe tramples and scatters whateverâs in her way as she goes. And for a day or two, even. Occasionally itâs massive; itâs four or five days later that good sense returns. When her rage passes, the Kahar girl sits quietly at the edge of the village, comes step by step into her backyard, lies down and weeps or sings softly, you canât quite tell whichâand just like this the Kopai comes down to her banks; having sprung her banks, she sinks a little below them and flows on with a gentle sound. Sheâll do this six or seven times, no more, in the space of four months. Maybe once during that time, or perhaps once every two or three years, sheâs yet crazier. The Kopaiâs just like a Kahar lass.
But the girlâs done wrong, ruined honor. Even if Kopai floods donât smash your home you do still suffer, indeed. When the water goes down, steam rises from the sodden fields; countryside fills with flies and mosquitoes. Humans move; above moving human heads, swarms of droning mosquitoes also move; human bodies shiver; bites bring up swollen welts on limbs. Flies sit in layers upon cowsâ bodies; unable to dislodge them by tail swipes, cattle shake their horns nonstop, sometimes jump with all four legs in the air. Farmers help out; bind spliced palm leaves together like a broom, and with this swat flies and drive them off. Just a few days after, âmaloyriaâ fever starts.
Thereâs moreâmisery of the Kopaiâs flood. Every two or three years the Kopai hill river of the Santal Parganas suddenly floods. Itâs called âFlash Flood,â and now and again a âgubagha,â a leopard, or two gets caught in that flood current, is washed down to these unlikely bends of Hansuli Turn, gets caught in the bamboo-grove edges of Bansbadi villageâs riverbank. Sometimes dead, sometimes alive. If alive, the leopard makes a home in these bamboo groves. Then come bears; one or two a year of those bastards. Strange, those fellows, when dead, never remain trapped in the bamboo groves when they die. Live tigers hardly ever turn up; same with dead. In a whole generation there were twoâone dead and one alive. The Ghoshes of Jangol pulled the dead one out and showed its skin to the district Saheb, thus gaining a gun. It was the Kahars who killed the live one; the spice merchants got a gun by showing its skin. If a bear comes itâs still the Kahars that kill; every flood time, if they see one on their searches of the bamboo groves after every flood, they give chase and kill with club, cudgel, spear, pike, bow and arrow, and celebrate, dancing wildly; transfixed by their own bravado, they down huge quantities of liquor. And it is here there are wild pigs that, in spite of the Kaharsâ clubs, cudgels, spears, pikes, have set up a regular outpost. Not, of course, in Bansbadiâs bamboo thickets, but a bit farther away in the Saheb Tracts. With the ravages of the Kahars, they donât get away with settling in the Bansbadi area. Their great gathering place is in the brushland, in the ruined offices of the indigo works. At night a horde of swine runs grunting along the riverâs edge, digs up earth with tusks, eats roots. Now and then one or two are thrown off the horde and enter the village. Someone stumbling across them gets hurt. Then the Kahars take up arms against them. Not arms, traps. They have an amazing ruse for killing wild pigs. In the middle of two-foot strips of bamboo is tied a foot-long, strong, wiry cord with a sharpened hook at the end. As bait on the hook, banana and fermented liquor dregs. Ten or so of these things are scattered on path and field. Drawn by the sweet smell of liquor dregs, the damn pigs come snuffling along the ground and gobble them up with delight; hooks stick straight through their tongues or jaws. They then try to release the hooks by pulling with their hoofsâwhich has the opposite effect, as the hookâs wire enters the hoof cleft and the hoof cleft gets stuck on the bamboo strip at the end. At one end the hook catches in the tongue, at the other end a cord-yoked hoof catches on the bamboo strip; the poor piggy bastard has one leg up and stands there like that on three legs. In the morning, the Kahars all come with clubs in hand, beat the pig to death, and drag it off for a sacrificial feast.
Sometimes crocodiles appear too. Nearly all are fish-eating. When they come the crocodiles get down into the Jangol gentryâs fish-filled ponds. They donât want to come up. Boom-bam, the gents bring rifles and fire bullets; the crocodile surfaces, dives, and sticks up its snout in a different corner. Sitting up on the banks, puffing their pipes, the Kahars watch with amusement; yet by the riverside of Hansuli Turnâs Bansbadi there are deeps where a huge, voracious man-and-cow-eating crocodile comesâfolks here call it âghariyaal.â Then the Kahars donât sit quiet. They come out in a posse; yellow turmeric smeared all over, they carry spades, axes, staves, spears, and a very long bamboo pole with a rope noose tied on one end. All along the riverbanks they hunt for the crocodileâs den. If they find sign of the devilâs lair in a hole at the edge of the bank they excitedly block up the mouth of the hole while diggi...