During the spring of 2003, in the small town of Goldendale, Washington, the deputy sheriff, a patrolman, and a veterinarian faced something they had never seen before. They had been called to the scene of a gruesome crime. A nine-month-old Gelbvieh bull lay on the ground with its scrotum removed in a neat circle. The bullâs penis had been pulled out and excised. The animalâs left eye was gone. The tongue had been removed, the cut going deep into the back of the throat. No footprints or tire tracks had been found near the dead bull. Normally when cattle die, the final leg movements can leave marks on the ground. Here the investigators found no signs of struggle. According to the owner, the animal had been healthy the day before. It was obvious to the veterinarian that the nine-month-old animal had been deliberately killed and mutilated. Somebody had used a sharp instrument and some surgical know-how to remove the animalâs sex organs. The veterinarian had seen enough to be able to tell the difference between predators, scavengers, and the skilled use of a surgical instrument; the dexterous removal of the tongue gave it away. Either the coyotes were packing scalpels that day or the people who had carried this out knew what they were doing.
A month later, the investigators were still scratching their heads. Three more previously healthy cows had been killed silently in the night on the same property using the trade-mark lethal skill and a thorough knowledge of surgical procedure. Again, the sex organs and eyes had been removed, and in two cases, the tongues had also been taken out. These were not predator attacks. For a second time, the location of the cow killings and mutilations was Goldendale, a sleepy hamlet that lies on the southern border of the Yakima Native American reservation. The region is not populated.
Six months later, on December 23, 2003, authorities announced that the first case of mad cow disease in the United States had been found in a Holstein dairy cow in nearby Mabton, Washington. Mad cow disease, also known as bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE), is a deadly and mysterious disease that afflicts cattle. The infectious organism is known as a prion. It is not a virus and it is not a bacterium. It is a unique infectious protein that kills by provoking suicide programs in billions of nerve cells and leaving a spongy, misshapen mess of brain in its wake. Under a microscope the brain of a BSE victim is full of holes. Typically, a few years after initial infection, cattle begin to stagger and act strangely. They twitch and fall down and their behavior can become bizarrely aggressive. Hence the moniker âmad cow.â The disease progresses inexorably and the animals die. There is no cure.
The first announced case of BSE in North America took place just sixty miles from the scene of the unsolved cattle mutilations that had been investigated by law enforcement and a veterinarian a few months earlier. A coincidence? Perhaps. But it was not the first time it had happened.
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The story of the discovery of Americaâs first mad cow began on December 9, 2003, the day that a Holstein cow from a Mabton farm was slaughtered. As reported by Steve Mitchell, the UPI medical correspondent who is credited with much of the important investigative journalism on this breaking story, âThe cow was chosen for testing because it was a so-called downer, meaning it was unable to walk or standâa possible sign of the disease.â But was it really a downer? The next sentence of Mitchellâs story would provide an alternate possibility: âAlthough in this case, an injury to the pelvis sustained while giving birth appeared to be the cause of the cowâs inability to walk.â In any case, the Holsteinâs brain was then shipped to the National Veterinary Services Laboratory, USDAâs mad cow testing lab in Ames, Iowa. The lab began to prepare the brain tissue on December 11. The sample was ready for analysis on December 22, after the usual ten days or so the USDA test takes to fix and stain the brain tissue.
The next day, just as people were doing their last-minute Christmas shopping or leaving town to visit relatives, the results of the testing were made public: America had its first case of mad cow disease. âBy that time,â reported Mitchell, âmeat from the animal had been turned into ground beef and already made its way to supermarkets in several different states where some consumers unwittingly purchased and ate it.â As the USDA continued to make announcements that corroborated Mitchellâs reporting, American meat eaters shuddered. So did the cattle industry; the domestic beef and dairy market is worth tens of billions of dollars in the United States.
Beginning on December 23, the cattle industry canceled all Christmas vacations for their spin machine, and over the holidays began an orchestrated campaign to persuade the American public that eating beef was safe. A key person in the USDA Christmas counterattack was Alisa Harrison, the spokesperson for Ann Veneman, the Secretary of Agriculture. Over the two weeks that followed Harrison proceeded to issue statements, manage press conferences, and otherwise guide the news coverage of the mad cow crisis, all in an effort to reassure âthe world that American beef is safe,â according to Fast Food Nation author Eric Schlosser in an Op-Ed piece in The New York Times.
Some people might think that Harrison must have a scientific or veterinary background in order to make such statements. Those people would be wrong. âBefore joining the department,â noted Schlosser, âMs. Harrison was director of public relations for the National Cattlemenâs Beef Association, the beef industryâs largest trade group, where she battled government food safety efforts, criticized Oprah Winfrey for raising health questions about American hamburgers, and sent out press releases with titles like âMad Cow Disease Not a Problem in the U.S.â Ms. Harrison may well be a decent and sincere person who feels she has the publicâs best interest at heart. Nonetheless, her effortless transition from the cattlemenâs lobby to the Agriculture Department is a fine symbol of all that is wrong with Americaâs food safety system. Right now youâd have a hard time finding a federal agency more completely dominated by the industry it was created to regulate.â
The top echelon of the USDA is literally packed with former executives from the beef industry. Venemanâs chief of staff was previously the chief lobbyist for the cattlemenâs association. Other veterans of the association also have high-ranking jobs at the USDA. So do some former meatpacking executives and a former president of the National Pork Producers Council, Schlosser pointed out. Given the seamless revolving door between the USDA and the cattle industry, the obvious question becomes, does the USDA have the interests of the American consumer at heart or does it have the interests of the cattle industry as a higher priority? Are the statements emanating from the USDA to be interpreted as the unvarnished, objective analysis of a government agency that is taxpayer funded and is working on behalf of the people?
The spin machine from the USDA seemed to work like clockwork until Dave Louthan went public a month later with his account of the slaughter. Louthan is the person who killed the mad cow at Vernâs Moses Lake Meat Company on the ninth of December. Only Louthan says the cow was not a downer. He says the cow was perfectly healthy-looking, and the only reason she was killed was because she refused to get off the trailer ramp and he feared she might back up and trample the other cows lying prostrate in the trailer. It was late in the day, the cow looked balky, and âI was cutting corners,â Louthan told the reporter for the Seattle Times. Louthan had been in the job for four years and has no doubt he remembers the right cow: âEvery cow that comes in there, I kill. That kind of puts us in a relationship.â
The Seattle Times story continued: âSo he shot a bolt through her head, scooped out a bit of brain, put it in a bag, labeled it with her number, and hung it on the wall with samples from others in the truckload. Later, he checked records to confirm that the âmad cowâ was the cow he remembered, the balky Holstein from the Sunny Dene Ranch in Mabton, Yakima County.â If he had not killed the cow outside, the mad cow might never have been discovered, because the plantâs testing program called for sampling cows killed outside only.
Before long, others came forward to corroborate Louthanâs account. The plant manager, Tom Ellestad, confirmed that the cow was walking. âShe did walk off the trailer at our place,â Ellestad bluntly told The Oregonian. âYou got a definition (problem) with the USDA and the veterinarian. They certainly want to call it a downer.â The trucker who hauled the animal to the slaughterhouse also said the animal was walking. And an investigation by the Government Accountability Project, a citizensâ watchdog group, also confirmed the story by Louthan, who was laid off within weeks of the incident, because, according to his bosses, business had slowed down. Only one person claimed the animal was a downer. The USDA released the actual veterinarian record of the animal; it stated that the animal was a downer.
Every year 35 million cattle are slaughtered in the United States. Out of this number about 200,000 cows are labeled as downers. Until December 2003, the USDA routinely tested about 20,000 downer animals per year for evidence of mad cow disease. Now they test more, but still only a small fraction of the total number of cattle slaughtered every year. So if the animal, as three witnesses have testified, was not a downer, then there is no chance that the USDA could possibly have picked up a case of mad cow disease. And even then, since they were only testing about 10 percent of all downers, even this level of testing was a mere gesture.
Thatâs why Louthanâs testimony sent shock waves through the cattle industry. Their whole policy was based on a gamble that only downer cows would have mad cow disease. Louthanâs testimony exposed the charade of this policy by showing that a walker could just as easily have mad cow disease.
Although this shocking discrepancy received some attention from the media, it did not get the front-page coverage it deserved. No one was really aware of the implications of the conflicting stories about what happened outside Vernâs meatpacking facility in remote Washington State on that fateful day in December 2003. If Louthanâs version of the events is correct, then this case of BSE was caught purely by accident. The heart-stopping implication is that there are probably many more cases out there like this one. And that means the American public may be happily consuming mad cow burgers.
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This is a complex, multifaceted story. It is one that I have followed for twenty years as an interested scientist. But only recently did I come to realize that my own research of the past decade actually provides a small piece to this puzzle. As a result, I have gone back and researched the story, found some of it was well known and some of it was buried in the scientific literature. I have also interviewed a number of the principals in this story, which, as we now know, began in New Guinea nearly fifty years ago.
This book suggests how the well-meaning efforts to research a deadly disease that killed thousands of people in New Guinea may have had unforeseen, terrible consequences. The period following these experiments has seen a burgeoning contamination of the North American food chain, and a dramatic increase in the number of people dying from Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease in this country and elsewhere. Joining these dots has, until now, remained below the radar of public consciousness. But on December 23, 2003, all that changed with the public unveiling of the first official case of mad cow disease in a North American herd. Here now is the full story.
A young woman sat in the corner of the mud hut. Though she was bone thin, it was the look on her face that startled her visitor. The womanâs face was expressionless. Her eyes were blank. The lack of expression was so profound, in fact, that she could have been wearing a flesh-colored mask. Every few minutes, a fluttering tremor ran through her body, as if she was shivering uncontrollably from a cold wind.
Vincent Zigas observed the woman as he sweated inside the hot, humid hut. Zigas had never seen symptoms like these before. He learned that the woman had kuru. She had been bewitched, he was told. There were many women and children in the village who had been bewitched by powerful sorcerers and they would all die, or so the story went. Nobody recovered from kuru.
Zigas was a young German-Lithuanian doctor from Australia. He had arrived in the central New Guinea Highlands in 1955 on an Australian government assignment to help eradicate some of the diseases that thrived in the hot, clammy climate. Papua New Guinea presented a daunting topography for outsiders. Within an area slightly larger than California, the country combines dense, almost impenetrable, leech-infested rain forests and highlands stretching up to more than 13,000 feet. Half the island had belonged to Australia since 1910, and after the Japanese takeover during World War II, the Australian government sent several officials into the Highlands in a bid to tame the rampant lawlessness and often gory tribal conflicts among its warlike inhabitants who still used bows, arrows, and stone axes, and knew nothing of the existence of the wheel. But the term âStone Ageâ fails to capture the real flavor of the place. Since Captain Cookâs forays into the region in the late 1700s, New Guinea had a reputation for being home to multiple tribes of bloodthirsty cannibals and headhunters.
After his arrival in Kainantu and a nearby village called Okapa, Zigas discovered he was the only medically trained doctor in that part of New Guinea. In 1955, Kainantu, known as the âgateway to the Highlands,â was a small settlement several daysâ hike from the Highlands, where the medical supplies from the Australian Department of Health arrived. The town was a central crossing point for people moving up and down from the Highlands and was a natural place for Zigas to set up his base. While in Kainantu he heard rumors about a mysterious disease called kuru in an obscure tribe called the Fore (pronounced FOR-ay). The Fore lived in the remote highlands and had had very little contact with the outside world.
In September 1955, accompanied by a guide, Zigas set off to investigate these increasingly persistent rumors. After two daysâ hiking in the high terrain the guide led him into a small hamlet with a few scattered mud huts where Zigas witnessed the woman with the strange symptoms. By the end of the year, he had seen dozens of similar cases, mostly in women and children. He first thought it was a brain disorder, maybe a virus or bacterial infection. With almost no medical facilities and no clean water or electricity in the bush, Zigas took what medical supplies he could carry on the two- or three-day hike into the Highlands. As the numbers of kuru cases multiplied, he was quickly overwhelmed.
Kuru was ripping apart the fabric of the Fore tribe, because every death from kuru demanded a death in revenge of the presumed sorcerer who had cursed the victim. The ritual murder, called tukabu, usually followed the kuru death by a few days. The deaths from kuru were predominantly women and children, but the deaths from tukabu were often men. Usually the tukabu involved the unfortunate person who was accused of sorcery, often with no evidence, being bludgeoned with rocks or hacked to death with machetes. A fiendish balance in mortality seemed to be playing out between the deaths of women and children by kuru and the deaths of men by tukabu.
In his memoirs Zigas described one of the many tragic kuru cases he witnessed. Walking past a village hut, he had encountered a Fore woman, who held âon her lap a limp figure, grossly emaciated to little more than skin and protruding bone, the shivering skeleton of a boy, looking up at me with blank crossed eyes.â Zigas went on to describe how this womanâs only child died the next day while her husband had just been murdered in a tukabu killing.
Zigas spent a year trying to interest the Australian health authorities in the disease and received only vaguely expressed promises in return. Sir Frank McFarlane Burnet, director of the Walter and Eliza Hall Institute in Melbourne and one of the most famous medical scientists in the world, showed curiosity about the descriptions of kuru but did not assign any of the large number of medical researchers at Walter and Eliza to help the floundering German-Lithuanian. Undeterred, Zigas began gathering samples while working virtually alone in very primitive conditions. By scrounging around among his acquaintances and by begging for funds from the Australian health authorities, Zigas began the long project of building a primitive field hospital near the airstrip at Kainantu.
Zigas impressed everyone with his sincerity and he gradually earned trust among the Fore as well. The reward came in early 1957 when they allowed two tribal members suffering from kuru to make the long trip down to the hospital for medical observation and treatment. The Fore were humoring Zigas. They believed Zigas was wasting his time; they knew that kuru was the result of sorcery and that the only way to cure it was to find the sorcerer and persuade him to lift the curse. So it was that Zigas began the long process of medical detective work with the first two kuru patients at his makeshift medical facility.
Then, on March 14, 1957, a surprise visitor showed up at Zigasâs facility in Kainantu. His now famous description of the caller appears in Zigasâs posthumously published book: âAt first glance he looked like a hippy, though shorn of beard and long hair, who had rebelled and run off to the Stone Age world. He wore much-worn shorts, an unbuttoned brownish plain shirt revealing a dirty T-shirt, and tattered sneakers. He was tall and lean and one of those whose age was difficult to guess, looking boyish with a soot black crew cut unevenly trimmed as if he had done it himself. He was just plain shabby. He was a well-built man with a remarkably shaped head, curiously piercing eyes and ears that stood out from...