Beckett's Industrial Chocolate Manufacture and Use

Steve T. Beckett, Mark S. Fowler, Gregory R. Ziegler, Steve T. Beckett, Mark S. Fowler, Gregory R. Ziegler

• Publisher: Wiley-Blackwell
• Year: 2017
• ISBN:
  9781118923573
• Edition: 5
• Topic: Technology & Engineering
• Subtopic: Food Science
• Index: Technology & Engineering

Since the publication of the first edition of Industrial Chocolate Manufacture and Use in 1988, it has become the leading technical book for the industry.
From the beginning it was recognised that the complexity of the chocolate industry means that no single person can be an expert in every aspect of it. For example, the academic view of a process such as crystallisation can be very different from that of a tempering machine operator, so some topics have more than one chapter to take this into account. It is also known that the biggest selling chocolate, in say the USA, tastes very different from that in the UK, so the authors in the book were chosen from a wide variety of countries making the book truly international. Each new edition is a mixture of updates, rewrites and new topics. In this book the new subjects include artisan or craft scale production, compound chocolates and sensory.
This book is an essential purchase for all those involved in the manufacture, use and sale of chocolate containing products, especially for confectionery and chocolate scientists, engineers and technologists working both in industry and academia.
The new edition also boasts two new co-editors, Mark Fowler and Greg Ziegler, both of whom have contributed chapters to previous editions of the book. Mark Fowler has had a long career at Nestle UK, working in Cocoa and Chocolate research and development – he is retiring in 2013. Greg Ziegler is a professor in the food science department at Penn State University in the USA.

CHAPTER 1
Traditional chocolate making

Stephen T. Beckett

1.1 History

As early as 1900 BC cocoa was being used as a beverage by the Mokaya people in Mexico (Powis et al., 2007). Cacao trees were subsequently cultivated by the Aztecs of Mexico long before the arrival of the Europeans. The beans were prized both for their use as a currency and for the production of a spiced drink called “chocolatl”. The Aztec Emperor Montezeuma is said to have drunk 50 jars or pitchers per day of this beverage, which was considered to have aphrodisiac properties, a belief still held as late as 1712, when The Spectator newspaper advised its readers to be careful how they meddled with “romances, chocolate, novels and the like inflamers …”. The chocolate was prepared by roasting the cocoa beans in earthenware pots, before grinding them between stones. The mixture was added to cold water, often with other ingredients such as spice or honey, and whipped to a frothy consistency (Whymper, 1912).

The first cocoa beans were brought to Europe by Columbus as a curiosity, but were later exploited commercially by Don Cortez as a new drink (Minifie, 1980). The Spaniards preferred their drink sweetened, and in this form its popularity spread to Central and Northern Europe. In 1664 it was mentioned in England in Pepys’ Diary, but was essentially still restricted to the wealthy. The introduction of milk into this chocolate drink was first recorded in the UK in 1727, by Nicholas Sanders (Cook, 1984), although his reasons for doing so are uncertain.

A mixture of the ground cocoa beans and sugar would not by itself produce the solid chocolate so familiar to the modern consumer. Instead it would give a very hard substance which would not be pleasant in the mouth. In order to enable it to melt easily, it is necessary to add extra fat. This can be obtained by pressing the cocoa beans and removing some of the fat content, known as cocoa butter. The ability to extract this fat was developed in 1828 by Van Houten of Holland, and it had a double advantage: the expressed fat was used to make the solid chocolate bars, while the remaining lower‐fat cocoa powder could still be incorporated into a drink. This “drinking chocolate” was in fact usually preferred, as it was less rich than the original high‐fat mixture.

Van Houten’s development is even more remarkable when one considers that his factory and presses were entirely operated by manpower. In 1847, however, in Bristol (UK) Fry used recently developed steam engines to power the first factory to produce tablets of plain chocolate.

The solid form of milk chocolate is normally attributed to Daniel Peter of Vevey in Geneva (Switzerland) in 1875. In Switzerland, water‐powered machines were able to operate for long periods at an economic rate. This enabled the extra water from the milk to be driven out of the chocolate without incurring a large extra cost. Chocolates with moisture contents of above about 2% are normally unacceptable as they have poor keeping qualities, as well as a poor texture. The page of the notebook where he wrote his original recipe is shown in Figure 1.1. In 1908 his invention of milk chocolate was disputed, so this notebook was taken to a lawyer, who placed his stamp at the top of the page.

Figure 1.1 Page from Daniel Peter’s notebook showing the original milk chocolate recipe.

Source: Nestlé historical archives. Reproduced with permission of NESTEC S.A./Nestlé S.A.

Over the years many different flavours of both milk and plain (dark) chocolate have been developed. Sometimes there has been a definite policy to develop a “house” flavour within a company, for example in Cadbury’s Dairy Milk, or the Hershey Bar. At other times the flavour is adjusted to complement the centre of the sweet to be coated with chocolate. A very sweet centre such as a sugar fondant may be best complemented by a relatively bitter chocolate and vice versa. For milk chocolate, one of the biggest flavour differences is between the chocolates made from milk powder which are predominantly found in Continental Europe, and the “milk crumb” ones of the UK and parts of America. Milk crumb (see Chapter 6) is obtained by dehydrating condensed milk and cocoa mass. This was developed where milk production was very seasonal. As cocoa is a natural antioxidant, it was possible to improve the keeping properties of the dehydrated form of milk over extended periods without refrigeration. The drying process also produced a distinct cooked flavour, not normally present when the milk is dried separately.

Table 1.1 summarises some of the important dates connected with the history of cocoa and chocolate.

Table 1.1 Some important dates in the history of cocoa and chocolate.

Date	Event
1519	Cortez discovered that cocoa had been cultivated by the Aztecs more than 3000 years
1528	Cortez introduced a chocolate drink to Spain
1606	Chocolate drinking spread to Italy
1615	Chocolate drinking reached France
1657	First chocolate house established in London
1727	Nicholas Sanders invented a milk chocolate drink
1746	First cocoa planting in Bahia
1765	First chocolate company established in North America
1828	Van Houten patented the cocoa press
1847	Fry’s factory established in Bristol to produce eating chocolate
1875	Daniel Peters manufactured milk chocolate
1988	World cocoa grindings exceeded two million tonnes

1.2 Outline of the process

Chocolate has two major distinguishing characteristics: its flavour and its texture. Although many different flavours of chocolate exist, all must be free from objectionable tastes and yet incorporate at least some of the pleasant ones, which the consumer will associate with the product. A primary feature of the texture is that it must be solid at a normal room temperature of 20–25 °C (70–75 °F) and yet melt rapidly in the mouth at 37 °C (98.5 °F), giving a liquid which appears smooth to the tongue. The processing of chocolate is related to obtaining these two criteria and is therefore devoted either to developing the flavour of the product – using a raw bean would produce a very unpleasant taste – or treating it so that the liquid chocolate will flow properly and be free from large gritty material.

Although many different methods of chocolate‐making exist, most traditional ones are based on the process outlined in Figure 1.2 and briefly described below. Further details are given in the relevant chapters of the book.

Figure 1.2 Schematic diagram of traditional chocolate‐making process.

1.2.1 Preparation of cocoa nib – flavour development

The cocoa tree produces pods containing a pulp and the raw beans. The outer pod is removed together with some of the pulp and the beans are fermented. This enables chemical compounds to develop inside the beans, which are the precursors of the flavour in the final chocolate. Failure to carry out this stage properly cannot be rectified by...

Table of contents

• Cover
• Title Page
• Table of Contents
• Contributors
• Preface
• CHAPTER 1: Traditional chocolate making
• CHAPTER 2: Cocoa beans
• CHAPTER 3: Production of cocoa mass, cocoa butter and cocoa powder
• CHAPTER 4: Sugar and bulk sweeteners
• CHAPTER 5: Ingredients from milk
• CHAPTER 6: Chocolate crumb
• CHAPTER 7: Properties of cocoa butter and vegetable fats
• CHAPTER 8: Flavour development in cocoa and chocolate
• CHAPTER 9: Particle size reduction
• CHAPTER 10: Conching
• CHAPTER 11: Chocolate flow properties
• CHAPTER 12: Bulk chocolate handling
• CHAPTER 13: Tempering
• CHAPTER 14: Moulding, enrobing and cooling chocolate products
• CHAPTER 15: Non‐conventional machines and processes
• CHAPTER 16: Chocolate panning
• CHAPTER 17: Chocolate rework
• CHAPTER 18: Artisan chocolate making
• CHAPTER 19: Chocolate compounds andcoatings
• CHAPTER 20: Recipes
• CHAPTER 21: Sensory evaluation of chocolate and cocoa products
• CHAPTER 22: Nutritional and health aspects of chocolate
• CHAPTER 23: Quality control and shelf life
• CHAPTER 24: Instrumentation
• CHAPTER 25: Food safety in chocolate manufacture and processing
• CHAPTER 26: Packaging
• CHAPTER 27: The global chocolate confectionery market
• CHAPTER 28: Legal aspects of chocolate manufacture
• CHAPTER 29: Intellectual property
• CHAPTER 30: Future trends
• Glossary
• Useful physical constants
• Index
• End User License Agreement